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By SkinnerHolden
#83135
Right!! Bravely going where I have never gone before!!! The head is safely off. I need to change the engine studs... how do you remove them? Thanks. Iain :roll:
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By Chris Tindal
#83141
Tighten two nuts down onto the stud, then with a spanner turn the bottom nut anti-clockwise to untighten. It shouldn't be able to travel up the thread because of the other nut stopping it, resulting in turning the stud instead. It can be a bit tricky to stop both nuts untightening together, but you'll soon get the hang of it.
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By Chris Tindal
#83142
If you're replacing them it may be worth fitting the modified ones with the square ends. With these you can tighten and untighten them easily with a socket and it saves the faf with two nuts. Bighead engines had them as standard but I think our host do them for the other iron/ classic engines.
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By stinkwheel
#83143
If they aren't going back in again, you could just use mole grips.

Two nuts will often work.

The proper tool would be a stud extractor. I use the type with tapered rollers in a socket. They can cause a bit of galling on the stud though. They can damage a threaded section quite badly but I find if you're using them on a plain stud section, it's nothing a bit of a rub with some emery paper wont fix. I slide them as close to the bottom of the stud as possible and put a spanner on them instead of using a ratchet handpiece to reduce the chance of shearing the stud. In this case, a ratchet spanner in use, Posing for the photo, I slide it nearer the bottom for actually extracting the stud.

A set of stud extractors is one of those little tools you don't use very often but that doesn't cost much and gives a warm sense of satisfaction when you can pull it out of the cupboard of "special" tools and use it. Mine were about £20 from machine mart as I recall, 6,8,10 and 12mm. I've used them more often for removing exhaust studs from Japanese bikes.

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Of course, if you're replacing them with our hosts ones with the square end, you can wind them in and out using a reversed 1/4" drive socket and an allen key.

If it's a classic engine, remember to run a drill through the cylinder head washers before re-fitting them. Even with the hardened ones, they can land up VERY stuck as I found recently taking the head off my 350.

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