Hitchcocks Forum

Has anyone here tried out the neat rear wheel adjusters kit (92693) from our hosts?

If so, please could they email me with their thoughts on the kit. I'd like to include it in the next issue of The Royal Enfield Magazine.

My email address is [email protected]

Best regards

Paul.

They allow finer adjustment than the snail cams, which only adjust in fixed increments, so you can end up tighter or slacker than ideal. They don't have as much capacity as the snail cams, not an issue with a decent chain. On my bike I know the wheels are aligned when the LH snail is 2 notches further on than the RH snail, so it's more of a fag to line the wheels up with the new adjusters.
I have a set of the EFI adjusters surplus to requirements if you're interested....

...should have added, they're well made and easy to fit. Many folk over on the US forum prefer them.

hi paul ,i have a pair on my army bike ,and i must say that i prefer snail cams as the amount of adjustment is not comparable to the snail cams (i like to get use out of a chain not half of it )i look after a members bike (an efi) and we returned to snail cams as it was easier for him to adjust counting knotches ,but i must state that our hosts adjusters are very well made although road salt soon had them tarnished,green paint saved the day as it often does must get another litre.happy days g12

To be honest I bought a set, tried and went back to "Marked" Cam's
I think From Memory it was Difficult to get the spanner in just right too...

So a good idea But...............................

As Bikerbill wrote the snail cams are good but be aware that carefully counting the notches and matching both sides on my Electra finished up with the wheels out of alignment - mine two is two notches up. Cheers, Graham

I never liked the snail cams, and found them difficult to set up accurately. Counting the notches left the wheel out of line. The two punch marks found on some cams (including mine) where also inaccurate. I always found it really difficult to pull the wheel back when trying to adjust the chain. I switched to our host's adjusters and found them well made and easy to set up. Mind you I'm running a 19 tooth gear box sprocket so the adjustment restriction some have mentioned doesn't bother me. I ensure proper alignment by running string from the rear wheel to a point beyond the front wheel making sure it touches both tyres in two places. You only have to do this once, as future adjustment can be done by counting the flats on the nuts.

just another thought on the said adjusters ,when undoing the first nut spindle bolt then slackening 2nd nut sprocket etc and setting up i always find that the wheel pulls out of line with the hitcock adjusters at the spindle termination so i use a piece of alloy box section accross both wheel flats when all is equal wheels are in line ,never cared for the string job as at the mot they use a long piece of wood or they did in the old days but each to their own ,while just thinking of the piece of wood how many remember getting realed in by the break tester gauge ,happy days

Hey grunda. The thing about using string is that you know it is STRAIGHT! Bits of wood, a piece of old skirting board, or anything else for that matter not good. Also, when the bike is on the main stand string can find a straight path past the obstacles.

And if you want to be really obsessional about it (who, me..?) you can use those little laser pointers and get it spot on..
http://www.realclassic.co.uk/techfiles/ ... nment.html