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By stinkwheel
#81147
First an expectations check. I think this is a brake that will, at best, count as barely adequate for the bike it's fitted to. I have had bikes with worse brakes but it is not very good.



The thing that made most difference to mine was NOT fully tightening the domed brake plate nut so it allows a slight amount of free play on the plate. Up tight then backed of maybe half a turn. This lets it find its own centre/angle.



Have you tried reshaping the brake shoe material to the contour of the drum? Effectively "bedding in" but done in the workshop. Draw a cross-hatching of chalk on the shoes, insert them in the drum and rotate a couple of times holding the brake lever on. The chalk marks will rub off the high points, sand these down with some relatively course sandpaper. Repeat until pretty much all of the chalk marks are gone when you test it. I then file a slight chamfer on the leading edge of each pad to help them cam-on. In theory, this process should finish with your pads radiused correctly. Also, in theory, even if the cam pivots/back plate aren't true and square, it should still work properly because your pad material will all be hitting the drum (if you think about it, BSA and Triumph both fitted their bikes with conical hubs).
By mauri
#81158


ones all the parameters of the TLS brake are correct, it will have the stopping power that is close to the enfield's disk brake in standard trim.



on the question of overall feel, sensitivity and maintenance the drum brake will come a clear second.



the only reason i changed to a disk brake on my road going enfield was that i wanted continuity, as it was a daily commuter in all weather.

for those who ever had water in there drum brake will understand, and the quick fading after a bit of hard braking was also the reason.

and the extra power of the 612 kit didn't help the drum brake either.



on the other hand i am completely satisfied of the standard TLS on my trials enfield which does see little road, and thats only to commute between zone’s.

for the in zone work its just fine.


User avatar
By Wheaters
#81194
When the brake is fully applied, at what angle are the two brake arms relative to the inner cable? If the angle is less than, or not more than 90 degrees, all is good. If the arms are at an angle of greater than than 90 degrees, the harder you pull on the brake, the less the mechanical advantage on the arms.

If this has happened, it might be possible to shim out the shoes, or as already suggested, get some thicker linings fitted to the shoes and matched to the drums.
By Tim NZ
#81214
If you search the old message you will see that 2LS brake problem comes up frequently...


If you would like to contact me off-list, I can send you a Word doc that fully explains the CORRECT method of setting up a mechanical TLS front brake. The results are such that 'stoppies' are possible when correctly set.


DONT ever turn brake drums! They must be Ground to provide the correct surface finish to optimise effectiveness and efficiency. Lathe-turned finishes simply accelerates lining wear.


royalenfield AT brauhaus DOT co DOT nz




Tim NZ


User avatar
By Leon Novello
#81216
As Tim says, also, too much skimming away metal in a lathe will make it thinner and more vulnerable to warping / distortion with heat which will result in brake shudder.
By mauri
#81222


over exaggerating serve nothing to no one.

and a standard enfield isn't a rocket either.

even if you kit up the engine, just safe your self the bother and mount a disk brake.

boosting on part of the bike an not the other is a costly error.



were talking 2 tenths of a millimeter, and these are the high points your taking off.



same go's for grounding the drum.

the drum insert in cast iron, so unless you find someone how will ground it dry(because grounding cast iron makes very fine dust).

and using cooling liquid to quench the dust will only damage the pump of the lathe.

or they have a extraction possibilitys for the dry dust(witch most dont have).

turning cast iron makes bigger particles witch are more manageable.



you have to find a idiot that works(his life time) in the metal industry who has not heard of siderosis.


By jawa-enfield
#81224
Thanks fo all the replies.
Ofcourse i know how to adjust an double leading front brake and the cable is okay, I have several bikes with double leading front brakes.
Salckening the central nut causes the plate to tilt and i do'n think it is the way to go.
I still do not have a cleu why it went from almost normal braking to very bad whithin minutes.
When i came home the drum and plate was not hot and wheel turned freely.
the drum is new, have 3 kinds of linings, all made to fit (ahem) 3 types of braking cams (as teh original ones are not even and straihght at all)

Does anyone know whether the front hub of f.i. an condor a-350 would fit?

I am aware of the disc brake conversion, but if these parts are also made in india, i will stay far away from them.

Tim, i don't think you have any secrets for me but i am desparate and curious, i will contact you!(but how?)
User avatar
By Adrian
#81226
It's not generally a good idea to post your actual e-mail address on a forum in case it gets harvested by spam-bots. What Tim NZ did was to give you his e-mail address in slightly encrypted form.



So if you take royalenfield AT brauhaus DOT co DOT nz and replace the AT with @ and DOT with . while deleting the spaces, you get a usable e-mail address.



Tim, my apologies in advance if you now get tons of spam in your in-box.

A.
By jawa-enfield
#81236
yes, and there's no way of altering theis post, very stupid of me..

One thing bothers me.. everyone knows about the perfect-paralellogram and trunion distance, but every time you have to adjust both levers to touch equally.
This means although both levers stand parralel, the braking cams -most of the ime- are not, hence resulting in unequal. forces between the shoes?

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