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By Rushour
#88327
When all said and done - in desperation I sent my wheel and brake to a specialist - He ground the drum round and made brake shoes of the exact correct width in order to touch the drum with maximum affect - cost about £100 but the result was unbelievable - I would say every bit as good as the disc brake. Answer- if you have tried everything - use a professional.
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By Wheaters
#88329
I must say the OP seems to have been very unlucky with this brake problem. Apart from slight release drag after my brake had been very wet, after a few winter rides out, I’ve had no problems and found the stopping power to be adequate - once I’d got everything properly adjusted and bedded in, which it wasn’t when I bought the bike.

The slight drag was caused by sticky brake cam shafts and I temporarily solved that out on the road by dribbling a little oil on them, using the engine oil on the dipstick. I dismantled the brake plate and re-greased the shafts once I’d got home.
By jawa-enfield
#88357
I went to several 'specialists'had the drum 4 times in a lathe, 4 times oval result, a drum which is useless and costed a lot of money, so won't do that again. Had a new wheel from India ofcourse a sharp wobble in the drum but won't let it 'fix'again.
So if any tips for a braking thing, i would be thankfull
By jawa-enfield
#88358
Wheaters wrote:
Thu Mar 12, 2020 3:04 pm
I must say the OP seems to have been very unlucky with this brake problem. Apart from slight release drag after my brake had been very wet, after a few winter rides out, I’ve had no problems and found the stopping power to be adequate - once I’d got everything properly adjusted and bedded in, which it wasn’t when I bought the bike.

The slight drag was caused by sticky brake cam shafts and I temporarily solved that out on the road by dribbling a little oil on them, using the engine oil on the dipstick. I dismantled the brake plate and re-greased the shafts once I’d got home.
What kind of linings do you use? and what size cams???
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By Wheaters
#88359
As far as I know, they are the original ones as fitted at the factory in 2004. The bike is an Indian home market 350 and had done just 3,000 miles when I bought it. It's done just over 11,000 miles now.
By Dinsdale
#88368
There is an interesting technical note on Hitchcock's site about Front Brake Overhaul on twin leading shoe brake systems and details of a modification to the top trunnion - interesting read and worth a look
By Jools G
#88379
One aspect no-one seems to have addressed is the cable itself - and I don't mean the inner part of the cable (the 'wire' portion). We all know that an inner cable which stretches is pretty much useless, but that's not the only determining factor in cable efficiency.

If the OUTER cable is of poor quality, it will collapse (i.e. shorten) when put under compression, effectively reducing the leverage effort very considerably.

It may well be worth having a new cable made up by a specialist who uses top-quality materials - at least it won't be very expensive.
By Dinsdale
#88390
Good cable already exists - Hitchcocks do a quality UK made brake cable 142636A which is nylon lined and needs minimum lubrication - just the occasional shot of ACF 50 / WD40 to keep corrosion at bay - been on my trials bike for 6 years
By jawa-enfield
#88823
Yes, i have this cable, it is much thicker then the original, but the cable is not the problem..
I've read someone had a grasping brake when moist/wet and made the linings by hand to radius, and says has a good brake?
very special..
It is strange that the original linings are never on radius...

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