Hitchcocks Forum

Hi I looking at doing some work on the front end of my 93 Bullet 500 as both forks are now leaking and the front brake is grabby. I am planning to switch to rubber gaiters instead of shrouds as well (see previous post a few months back) and fit a new front brake cable and inspect the brake linings.



I need to know what part numbers I need to replace when rebuilding the forks to stop them leaking.



The parts book shows I need at least 4 lots of:


OIL SEAL, TRIPLE LIP *SOLD EACH* Code: 144468



Are there any other parts worth replacing while I have the forks off, looking to be an expensive order from our hosts in the next few weeks as have a load of bits waiting in the basket, well expensive for me anyway

I'd get yourself a protective cap for levering he old seals out with so you don't crack the top of the fork legs. Part: ST25114



I'd also just get a seal and spacer kit which inclused all 4 seals, 2 new spacers and 2 new wire clips which you might damage removing them. Part: 92769



You will need to either re-anneal or replace the copper sealing washers at the bottom. 140187



If you are removing the shrouds, you will need to remove the fork stanchions too. So you'll need something to unscrew the stanchions out of the casquette which is a 13mm hex. There is a good chance this will damage the o-rings that sit on top of the stanchion. 140338



Also read our hosts handy howto guide: https://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/p ... -08-17.pdf



From a personal point, if you open the bag the seals are in carefully, the thick plastic is ideal for oiling and wrapping round the top of the stanchion as you slide the seals over it to prevent damage to the lip of the seal by the sharp edge.



If you don't have a seal driver, see if you can find a length of plastic waste pipe which is somewhere between the ID and OD of the seals to use as a driver.

Quote from Stinkwheel "I'd get yourself a protective cap for levering he old seals out with so you don't crack the top of the fork legs. Part: ST25114" A coil clamp if you have one knocking around fits perfect plus you can tighten it on. 13mm hex is also the same size as the footrest stud, and if you are changing the fork springs you will need the tool to undo the collar at the end of the stanchion, but if you have the two special tools to remove a grinding disc from the arbour then those 2 dogs on one of the tools fit perfectly.

Great thanks for your help, now I have some more bits to order.

Don't forget a set of short fork shrouds to keep the top end of the gaiter fitting nice and tidy, if you don't want to cut down the originals.



A.

-----and remember that when removing the stanchions you turn the tool CLOCKWISE....If this is the first time they have been removed you might find that they are tight into the casquette and may need a "wee bit more" effort than you first thought...

Check thoroughly the chromed stanchions for any minor pitting in the surface where the seals rub----chances are this is why they are leaking in the first place ??

Here's a tip}---Remember that the rubber bellows will require some sort of breathing device for when they move up and down....My favourite is a thin plastic tube placed at the bottom clamp on the inner side so it's mainly out of view....

Yes, what Alan says. The tubes are rht into the top of the casquette but you are looking at the ' bottom' of the thread so it's clockwise to undo.

When I fitted fork gaiters to my 350 Bullet Electra I just reminded myself that the fork stanchions are just like very large, right hand threaded bolts and they needed to be unscrewed from the "nut" which is the headlight casquette.

Rather than buying an "official" hexagon headed tool to unwind the stanchions (which I thought rather expensive for what it is), I obtained a 12" length of 1/2" hexagon bar and put a spanner on it to wind them out. Mine came off quite easily; overall the job was easier than I'd expected.

My bike has a centre stand and a rear rack. I put a piece of 25mm thick plank under the centre stand to lift the bike slightly then I tied a couple of spare car wheels on the rack to take the weight right off the front wheel. When the front wheel and fork are removed, the bike then sits back very firmly on its stand.

Hi I got a big long 13mm allen key to this job but it turns out the socket in the top of my forks is 12 point drive. The tool our hosts sell looks to be hex so is my bike just different. Could a slightly smaller 1/2 inch allen key fit in there and undo the fork in the same way as you can undo a hex nut with a ring spanner?

I suggest measuring accurately and buying the correct 12 point key for your socket set should be less than £10.