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Oil change problem

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 8:10 pm
by Phil (PJ) Berks
I have recently acquired a 2003 Bullet Sixty-5 with 8.5K miles on the clock. The engine oil was as black as coal so carried out an oil and filter change. The workshop manual states 2.25 Ltrs of oil in the oil tank, however I could not get 2Ltrs in before it overflowed. The workshop manual states to remove the 3 plugs on the underside of the engine which I have done and all fine in there and also drain the timing chest via the drain plug on the timing chest which looks to me as if it is actually draining the oil pump.--------- I have tried kicking the engine over with the spark plug out to see if the level will fall but to no avail.------I have read somewhere on this site about taking the tappet cover off and pouring oil in perhaps to prime the oil pump?---Your help would be greatly appreciated.----Many thanks--- Phil (PJ)

Oil change problem

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 8:26 pm
by Pwayman
Phil,

The timing chest retains a fair amount of oil so,if you've drained this,it will require refilling by removing the tappet cover and pouring oil in there directly before refilling the oil tank.

Oil change problem

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 8:31 pm
by Pwayman
..... alternatively,now that you've overfilled the oiltank,you should find the level reduce if you run the engine for a while. Slacken a feed banjo off first and turn engine over with spark plug removed until oil is seen at the banjo.Retighten and run engine for perhaps 10 minutes then recheck oil level in tank.

Oil change problem

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 9:28 pm
by trevorch
Phil, with due respect to Pwayman, would suggest you go back to basics and with a clean drip tray, remove the 3 drains under the bike and the quill bolt in the cente of the timing cover. Don't worry about taking the oil filter out again, unless you feel you must, as there is little oil in there. You should also try leaning the machine towards its right and left side to get more out. Then replace all three drains and the quill bolt.
Now to refill use only 1.5 Litres, then start the engine and let it tick over for a couple of minutes. No need to add any oil through the "push rod" cover, as the gears and valves will still be well oiled already.
Stop the engine and let it sit for a couple of minutes and then use the dipstick to check the oil level. Not necessary to fill to more than half way up the dipstick, so possibly you will need only a quarter to half a litre.

Overfilling is the most common mistake all beginners make. (2.25 Litres is perhaps the only first fill on an absolutely dry engine.)

Cheers TrevorCH

Oil change problem

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2012 9:39 pm
by Alan R
Hi PHIL(PJ)BERKS }----------I suppose it's too late to recommend fitting our hosts magnet, and volume filler items in the oil filter space ?? ....Also, thinking ahead--- keep a couple of filters "in soak" in a container with a 20-50 oil ready for the next change..... From personal experience I can also tell you that their crankcase breather kit is worth fitting ( Both my Classic 500's have it ).... May I also suggest that you try getting into a routine whereby you start the bike with a strange little device, proven down the years called -------The Kick Starter-----. Potentially this could save you anything up to £100 ie a new SPRAG CLUTCH plus charges...... Finally, for a smoother ride drain the fork oil and re-fill with ATF. Even if you don't change the standard springs, this little bit of cost and effort WILL reward you with a better ride and handling.

Oil change problem

Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2012 6:20 pm
by Phil (PJ) Berks
Gentlemen, many thanks for your replies and advice. In the end I decided to remove 240ml from the oil tank and ran the engine for 10 mins at tick over, left it for 5 then checked the oil level. It is now just over half way and I will heed your advice and leave it that.---- I have had 5 bullets in the last 6 years but have not needed to do an oil and filter change which I am quite used to doing but not on this design of engine – lesson learned ask before you start and as my senior engineer used to say “Fail to prepare then prepare to fail”------- Alan R :- Having used the softer springs from our hosts on my 3rd Bullet I shall indeed do the same to this one although it seems to be eating up cash like no tomorrow.------Once again many thanks to you all.—Phil (PJ)

Oil change problem

Posted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 4:41 pm
by PeteF
Phil, Just try changing the fork oil to ATF first. You could well find you don't need to do the springs.

Oil change problem

Posted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 8:48 am
by Bullet Train
I also fitted the magnetic drain plugs and the oil filter packing piece last year. The magnets certainly do their job atracting plenty of mettallic sludge.
And after an oil filter change, I found that starting up and ticking over and waiting for the oil to flow through one of the top end banjo's, it didn't happen? Very alarming at first, but then found it will ONLY start flowing at a good fast tickover, usually about 10 seconds from start-up, no problem. My pump is probably a tad worn. The moral here I think is keep it flowing by keeping it revving, particualary in heavy traffic/traffic lights.

Keep the Faith.
BT