Hitchcocks Forum

Hi,

I am continuing to rebuild a 1956 RE 500 Twin. A few questions if anybody can help.

1. Should the valves have any side-play as they are passed through the guides? Mine does have some but is this normal for the year?

2. The pistons are +20 and the rings fitted seem to have no ring clearance/gap. The rings have no markings and origin is unknown , the bores look "new". Should I buy new rings and is so will +20 be my best bet?

3. When running the engine was smoking on its left hand cylinder hence the strip down.Are there any known issues that might cause this other than rings/valves?

4. The colour of the bike I believe to be dark maroon - does anybody know the closest I can get to that for touching up?

5. I want to try and register the bike using its original registration number. I have tax discs (1966/67) and the log book. I have joined the RE Owners Club. I have read their instructions but it talks about "We would prefer that you retain your originals and submit authenticated photocopies, obtained from your local Vehicle Registration Office and stamped by them". There don't seem to be any local Vehicle Registration Offices now - has anybody done this recently?

Thanks and best regards

Just on the valve/valve guide question. There should be free movement of the valves in the guides but no appreciable radial or lateral movement. Maximum play should be just perceptible. More than that indicates excessive wear and need for guide and/or valve replacement.

Colin, 1) you will probably have a little side play as normal as the guides on Enfields aren't all that long. It should be minimal however. 2) Some ring sets are/were supplied ungapped, you'll have to carefully file the ends to get the correct gap. 3) Rings/valves is the usual place to look for oil burning on one or both cylinders. 4) Colour, not sure what an acceptable match would be, is your paint original? If not it could be anything! 5) If you have tyhe original log book and nothing has changed (engine/frame number the same, same colour and cc's etc) you can just send it off to the DVLA and get it replaced. It might help to get the REOC to issue a dating certificate, include some good photos and get it MOTd. You don't need an MOT by law as it is old enough to be exempt but an MOT cert will show that the numbers have been checked by an approved person, ie the MOT tester. This will almost certainly mean they won't ask for a vehicle inspection which although free takes a few weeks to arrange (5 weeks in my recent case with the Ebay Bullet) so money well spent onOT I'd say!

REgards, Mark

Thank you for the prompt replies. The bike I believe is totally original - I have had to change some pieces but have kept a photographic record and all removed pieces in case there are any questions. (Seat foam and cover, broken pannier rack (not RE), worn out centre stand, silencers, speedometer and drive).The valve movement is slightly side to side. I plan to use to try and improve the seating with some valve grinding but am reluctant to change the guides - only as a last resort. The other mystery for me is whether the tank originally had chrome panels which are listed against the 1957 tank. There is certainly an indent for them and there is a screw hole behind the badge. The listed 1956 tank is definitely not what I have. The rubber panels are cut out around the indent unlike those shown for the 1956 500 twin. Thanks again..

Colin, remember the model year for Royal Enfields (and most other makes,) goes from September to August. The summer holiday break meant the Factories closed and took the opportunity to start the new model year when they returned from Blackpool. So, a September 1956 machine is actually to 1957 specification. Does that help explain the differences?

REgards, Mark

Thanks Mark M - that does make a lot of sense. It's all so very different to modern bikes that I have owned. Some of the bike (I think it was the dynamo or magneto) is even stamped with 1954.