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Cylinder Head Replacement

Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 11:14 am
by Brazilla
Just about to install the tuned head on my 350. Just want to double check I am doing it all correctly as I have not a massive amount of experience in these matters. Anything I am missing please let me know!

- Clean surfaces of gasket (copper 1mm) and the surfaces around the barrel and the valves. Degrease etc.

- Use the Wellseal bought from our hosts. Spread evenly on each surface.

- Torque up head in diagonal fashion. Once run up to temp recheck the torque by loosening first and then taking back up to correct value (which is???)

I feel I may have missed something important. Does it need annealing?

Thanks in advance!

Cylinder Head Replacement

Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 11:33 am
by stinkwheel
Have you got hardened washers for under the head nuts? Re-torque after a full warm up then at 5, 50 and 500 miles.



I personally prefer the composite gaskets but that's personal preference.

Cylinder Head Replacement

Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 4:23 pm
by PeteF
Let the Wellseal "dry" before assembly.
I prefer the composite gasket as well and I'm told it doesn't need re-torquing. I didn't with mine anyway and it's not leaked.
Definitely use the hardened washers.
If there's any scratches at all on the head mating surface then dress them out on some abrasive paper stuck to a piece of MDF (or plate glass if you have it)
Don't over-torque the bolts. It's all too easy to pull the studs out of the crankcase.

Cylinder Head Replacement

Posted: Tue Jun 26, 2018 4:54 pm
by Mark M
Yes, you do need to anneal the solid copper head gasket. (This also applies to the copper washers on the rocker spindles on the Twins by the way!)

REgards, Mark