Hitchcocks Forum

Hi Guys


Picked up Bullet project/parts on sunday. i believe it seems to be from 1950s frame . no prob putting in car back seat

as you can see one rear shock absorber mounting ( ear ) is gone.

i want to give it local welder for repair.



Questions


> Which welding to use normal steel or bronze ? which one is better and last longer

> bit stupid question. i heard bronze welding cannot be repainted. ?
>br>
I like the engine breather. first time seeing in that position in real



Thanks & Regards
ET

Have you considered getting the frame blast cleaned and then crack tested before you go any further?

That's a 1954 or 55 frame, just before the big engine and frame re-design in 1956. The breather on the crankcase neck was a late fitting too. You will need a new timing cover judging by the oil filter cheekily poking out of yours! Papa is right I think, get it blasted first. The frame on my Ebay Bullet is the same and was in a worse state than yours, I took the precaution of getting it blasted before I did anything else. Fortunately the pitting was only shallow. Welding is normal steel welding on the suspension lugs, the lugged fittings like the swing arm pivot are brazed, this may be where your advice about paint came from. It is not true they can't be painted but they may need the flux (part of jointing process) removing first or paint won't adhere. By the way, where do you keep finding these bits?!

REgards, Mark

Hi Guys-------First, may I say "Well done" for posting some decent photos on here..I wish more of the others would take note and learn how to do it...It really helps from a diagnostic viewpoint...

Welding etc ???-- as above ie}--- have it blast-cleaned first and crack-checked...There are several firms who can do that for you........My advice is to opt for the least aggressive blasting method....Something like glass bead or Soda....As Brass / Bronze is a Non-Ferrous metal your usual commercial paints will not adhere very well, if at all.....You need a Self-Etching Primer for those parts....Halfords do their own at a reasonable price..Once you have done the non-ferrous items you can then overspray with an ordinary ferrous primer....I use this method when painting my 5" gauge steam locomotives etc as they have about 50 / 50 Brass sheet and steel items within their build...Shot blasting will also remove any flux traces ( Looks like glass )...

@papasmur



Blasting good idea. haven't thought about it before. i think it is required here.




@Mark M

Thanks for identifying the year. not able to find your 1954 bullet on ebay somehow. i would love to see it.

initial plan is to use this frame and gearbox with clipper 350 casing/crank. built with distributor may be electric ignition.



Regarding how i get the bits. i keep asking people about royal enfield/british bike bits in autojumbles/sometime put wanted ad. or vintage club meeting .friends and their friend and their friends

I must say i met many honest gentleman in this hobby. they ask me reasonable money . e.g last crusader frame/swing arm got for 30 Euro

distance doesnt matter to me , i roam all island for it dont get tired , there is still many more to come ,




@Alan R
Thanks for your feedback & blasting idea. my friend have blasting shop. i will see what he can offer .

From my VERY rough guide, your engine number appears to start with 33*** or 35*** which is right for mid to late 1954. 33 would definitely be 1954, 35*** may have crept over to 1955.

@john m
You are spot on the engine G2-35XXX so this might original engine of the bike. There seem like green colour under red might be primer not sure thanks again regards

The 1954 Bullet in the ebay advert 192520903252 mentioned in your other post has the engine number G2/354**, which tends to support my gustimate that your bike is a 1954 model.

I hadn't noticed that the vendor had included a copy of the REOC dating certificate that shows a dispatch date of 17/12/1954.

John M

Spot on. Thanks .. just noticed that as well ..