Hitchcocks Forum

Thanks for the Ad.
First post on here - so apologies in advance if I'm doing it wrong !

Bought an Iridium BPR6EIX11 to try and help cold starting.
1. Didn't realise it is a resistor plug, until reading other forums on here - so thanks for that.
2. Also didn't realise - it has a fixed cap nut ! my chrome cap takes the screw threaded plug type.
So I figured - rather than buy another plug, to replace the cap, with a non resistor type, for obvious reasons, but to fit over the fixed plug head, and/or the nut type. Reasoning being this fitting will allow both plug types, as I have spare plug top nuts anyway.
Nowthen. I would have liked (for the Old Brit look) to fit the Champion Bakelite cap, but all the ones I have found are resistor type.
Does anyone know, if there is a Champion cap, similar looking to the WCX600, (Screw on to lead / to fit nut type or fixed plug) which is NON resistor?
I found the black rubber one, and the red one, but you can't see the champion logo on either version, and the red one is resistor anyway. I was sure there would be a bakelite version to suit. (CGT535)
I think I can guess the answer - but you never know.

Cheers.
Gazbo

Oddly Iridium (and platinum ) plugs do not help starting. Their advantage over copper is resistance to erosion, hence longevity. This is great until you try to change them at 100k miles and find they're seized absolutely solid! Anyway, yes the plug you have has a 5 ohm resistance, having a suppressed plug cap as well is not ideal. It should work okay but .... Personally I would fit the best quality non supressed cap I could find and I think you'll struggle to find a good looking example. The Champion WCX600 is, I agree, for a plug cap rather splendid looking, but as you say, supressed.

You could unscrew the tops off the last set of NGK iridium plugs I saw for a 500 bullet. Sometimes need a pair of pliers to grip to unscrew them.

Apologies, I should have written 5k ohms, not 5! The Champion WCX600 caps have 8k ohms suppressors so add the two together and it is significant. I remember Boyer pre digital electronic ign recommending a max of 8k ohms but preferably zero.

Thanks all. That's more or less what I expected. I just liked the look of the WCX600 CAP. It's what all the brits had fitted when I was a lad in the 60s.I liked the look, but functionally, I'm probably better off with an NGK with the rubber seals on. Still going to change it from the tin bodied one thats on now though, so I can fit all three plug top types.mmmmm. not sure about the iridium now. What causes them to seize in then? Heat? Or just longevity in the head?

Something that just occurred to me. You may well be able to dismantle the plug cap and remove the resistor. You can definitely do it do it with NGK ones, the brass terminal that goes over the top of the plug is notched and it unscrews from the bakelite body with a screwdriver. Under it is a resistor then a spring. You just need to replace the resistor with something of a similar dimension that conducts electricity well. A cut-down M4 bolt or similar?

Try Green Spark Plug company.

Iridium spark plugs are usually fitted to modern cars
, one reason being the expensive job of pulling half the engine components apart to get access to the plugs, so they can stay there a lot longer. To avoid having them seize, a light smear of Never-seez will do the trick.

Ah - Stinkwheel. Nice one. I did see a tube vid about removing the resistor from a plug,which made me wonder about that too. My Dad used to keep a lot of spares in an old sideboard in his garage. he's going to see if he can dig something suitable out. if he has 2,(although it's a long shot !) I could try that on one of them.Worth a shot. If it's a success, I will post on here for anyone that may be interested. The champion caps just look the dogs B******s


Leon. Interesting. Not familiar with that stuff though.what is it based on? (Copper/Graphite ?) We have copperslip, and Nickel ease here at work (Mechanical Engineering and fabrication). We use nickelease on super heated steam flange bolts for the same reason. wonder if that would do the trick. I know they are fine with Steel etc, but not sure about Ally.

Gazbo: I hope this is helpful. http://www.dynoteq.com/en/files/en/itw/ ... 090716.pdf