Hitchcocks Forum

2007 Electra X. Had a load of corrosion in the tank, nicely cleaned out and tank lined with something I don’t know the name of. Carburettor super-sonic cleaned (don’t know the proper name for that either). New tap (includes filters). New fuel hose. Fresh fuel. Won’t start……….. New iridium plug. No start……. Battery good condition and fully charged. Something odd about cranking speed, upon engagement the starter motor stalls against compression but if I keep my thumb on the starter the motor will eventually (after a second or two) overcome compression and crank at normal speed. On one occasion the motor fired and ran for 5 – 6 seconds but cut out as I backed off the throttle. Losing the will to live (or a least the will to continue with RE ownership). Adam

Forgot to mention, came across the same cranking problem on V-W Transporters water cooled boxers, late 80's. that turned out to be the ignition timing slightly advanced so, unbelievably, the premature ignition of the fuel was what prevented the engine from rotating. My electrical knowledge stopped way back when things started going solid state / electronic. Is there some sort of device in the Bullet that times the electrickery to the crankshaft? Adam

Is the battery "in good condition" though. The symptoms your describe indicate it may well be the battery has a problem.
Also the starter solenoid could be duff. (I have just replaced the one on my 2006 Electra X (ish) because upon inspection the old one had a loose in the solenoid threaded stud.)

Hi Adam------ you shouldn't be cranking against compression in the first place...I thought the Electra X had an automatic de-compressor ??........I'd sort that out first...

Probably wrong to assume that just because you've cleaned the carb and sealed the tank that it's all clear and clean. I've seen it take a couple of goes at a carb, even when i thought I'd been meticulous with it. It's easy to miss bits, especially very small drillings and "power jets" in the carb which can be to do with slow running.



Also double check it all went back together correctly. I've more than once "missed" the main jet with the carb needle the first time I tried to insert it and have later found I'd pushed it up out of place.



Does it have a kick start and will it go on that?



Yes, the ignition timing motch is on the rotor on the left end of the crank and is detected up by a hall effect sensor. The advance is electronic. It COULD advance, the flywheel could have spun, but it's keyed so it would have to destroy the woodroffe key to do so. Or the sensor could have moved/come loose. I suspect either case to be fairly unlikely.



Occums razer suggests it's a fuelling system fault since this is the last thing you touched since it was working normally.

The Electra X still has a handlebar lever operated decompressor. I make sure the piston has gone over compression before I use the electric start because of the fragile starter sprag.

Oh, something occurrs to me that these may be one of the models with sprag clutch problems? Can anyone confirm that? You mention a funny noise when starting up, maybe like the sprag clutch slipping? Has your bike had a replacement ignition module fitted?

forgot to say}---- It's called "Ultrasonic Cleaning"......did you remove the diaphragm before cleaning ??-----The thin rubber might be split----always a good idea to change them or at least inspect for splits by gentle stretching....A loss of Vacuum will mean your fuel needle will not lift high enough....Starting/idling fuel circuits are the smallest size within the carb and thus prone to a full OR partial blockage giving rise to an unstable or weak mixture etc.............I hope you DIDN'T adjust the plug gap on your Iridium spark plug ??............They are pre-set at the factory and must be left alone...something the "Home Mechanic" finds hard to do !!

https://www.sparkplugs.co.uk/iridium-spark-plugs/

"There is no substitute for a good scrubbing brush and a poke with a wire! "



A blast of solvent and blow through with compressed air?



I was always taught never to poke anything inside a carburettor or jet. One thing I found that works well for the home mechanic who has no access to a compressor is a butane lighter refill can, preferrably one with a selection of different nozzles built into the lid. Blast the jets through with this (inverted can, select the best fitting nozzle). It is similtaneously a very high pressure liquid gas (the liquid butane immediately tries to expand to 24 times its volume at room temperature) and a solvent.



Obvious precautions of using it in a well ventilated space to prevent inhalation, wearing gloves to prevent freezing of skin (it gets very cold) and keeping it well away from sources of ignition.

Adam,



I would have another look at the battery. You say it's in good condition and fully charged, but how old is it? You might find a new Motobatt AGM battery will make a difference, after my Electra-X struggled through two normal lead-acid batteries, I fitted one and the transformation was immediate, I could use the E/S again. Yours might still hold a charge and chuck out enough power at 12V for a kick-start bike, but getting the Electra's E/S to work requires a VERY healthy battery.



A.