Hitchcocks Forum

I seem to have this problem that i just cannot get my bike to run as it should.starting from cold it is just imposssible to start, when finally get it to run not sure if it is right,?? i dont know how many times iv,e checked the ign timing,Iam now wondering if it may well be the carb,would appreciate any info if poss?? on an overhaul, that may cause this to not start????

Nellie really need more information (again!).What model is it exactly, and is it in standard condition? What did the overhaul consist of? Everything please. When the bike does start (and what is your starting procedure?) can you ride it normally? Or if you're not riding how do you know it sounds wrong? Any model of Crusader should start easily, even the highly tuned ones, it's one of their really good points! If you go through things logically we can crack this. I notice on previous occasions when you've asked for help you have not replied with feedback to suggestions, it really would help to keep track of what you have done if you let us all know! Sorry if I sound schoolmasterish but solving problems like this must be done one step at a time!
REgards, Mark

Mmm what sort of carb is the question that springs to mind.

S

Mark, Its monobloc 376 carb , as far as I can tell its a standard model. This bike I bought in bits.A big mistake on my part but it now looks great,Only problem is the starting , Had it rebored ,New piston, new vavles and guides, all done by local engineering firm .All parts were supplied by our host.
Dont know how many times ive checked the ignition timing, but does kick back sometimes.
starting from cold is a no no . Ive followed the handbook, two tickles on the carb full choke and it should start . When hot no tickle to start. I cant ride it at the mo due to this starting problem.Can someone tell me in the Jack Gray engine rebuild it suggests that the piston is put down the bore 1/4 of inch to do ignition timing ?
Mark I put all this info on before prior to Hitchcocks alteration to thier info scheme but didnt receive any replies.
I dont know what else I can tell you Mark .
Hope this gets some result .Thanks for all the info.

Nellie, thanks for coming back. Just checked Jack Gray's article and there is a mistake. You should rotate the piston to 1/4" before TDC then rotate forward to 11/64 BTDC then time it, the article has a misprint at this point. This might explain why you have symptoms of being over advanced ie, kicking back. Also check A/R unit is working smoothly, a little grease on the weights pivot points and make sure the springs are not tired or too tight, you should be able to rotate the cam smoothly against the springs and then when you let go it snaps back. I'd try that first! What is the condition of the carb? New? If not, is the slide a good fit? Finally don't get too hung up on the starting procedure in the manual, all bikes vary a bit!
REgards, Mark

Hello Nellie,

My machine is a 1959 250cc Clipper much the same as yours, I start my bike when cold as so, ignition off, air lever shut, tickle the carb till i'ts just about full, mine needs plenty of petrol, throttle wide open then slowly kick the bike over 3-4 times. switch on the ignition get the engine onto the compression stroke, throttle wide open then give it a bloody hard kick.

I also have to keep the battery fully charged, these small 6 volt batteries don't take much to drop the voltage hence weak spark at the plug!

Give it a go and see what happens.

Cheers.

Howzie, your way of starting your bike is exactly the same as me, yes they do need a good tickle,ie wet your glove and then a big handfull of throttle so Nellie give it a try and Mark M in the manual it says 1/64 not 11/64 and 1/64 = 5 degrees. I'm sure you meant this so perhaps a shakey finger like me sometimes.

Geoffro, you're right, I really should have read that properly before posting, thanks for pointing it out! It's a common problem that folk rebuilding a 250 don't believe that the BTDC figure is so small and assume it must be larger. Do it right and with everything else correctly adjusted the Crusader should be an easy starter! Apologies to Nellie if he's gone off on the wrong tangent as a result!
REgards, Mark

Hi Nellie,

I know you have tried all manner of things with your bike & the help you have received from the boys here will have been great they realy are a fantastic set of lads.

Nellie the next time you take the generator cover off try this!

Make a small pointer out of white cardboard say & stick it onto the cable clip that holds the three wires going to the alternator coils with some blue-tac. making sure the pointer is just above the rotor then set the engine at T.D.C. on the compression stroke, then make a mark on the rotor to match the pointer, this will give you your reference mark if you ever set the ignition timing again,

Geoffro is correct in saying that 1/64 = 5 degrees, so your rotor will be the same as mine at 70mm,

multiply the rotor 70mm by 3.142 = 219.94mm lets call it 220mm, so your circumference of the rotor is 220mm now divide 220mm by 360 (degrees) and that equals 0.61mm for one degree, so multiply 0.61mm by the 5 degrees needed for your timing & that comes out at 3.05mm, lets call it 3.0 mm, so you now have a reference mark on your rotor for T.D.C. now if you make an other mark to the right of this at 3.0mm then turn the engine back till the 3.0mm mark lines up with your pointer then that is bang on to set your timing IE points just starting to open.

It's an interesting thing the starting of singles. I find that the procedure varies considerably bike to bike because the tiniest change in tuning will effect the start. For instance my bitsa starts fine cold with a tickle to full bowl (not over full) one kick with no throttle. Throttle open at all and it kicks like a mule. When warm just kick no throttle and no tickle. Leave it on the side stand for any time however and its a bugger. The older Bullet has a different routine altogether. Generally the problem is flooding rather than lack of fuel as the tickler allows you to provide any amount of juice. My cure is to do the old Flight of the Phoenix number and open the throttle wide and kick it over with the decompression lever pulled. This generally clears it and it will at least fire if not start with the next kick. If you are really struggling I suggest checking that you have sufficient spark as a weak one will quench easily and prevent starting. If the spark is weak it could be a number of things but start with new points and condenser. In my experience though RE's are amongst the most willing of starters and so don't put up with anything else.