Hitchcocks Forum

Hi guys, Just a quick question regarding the electric emergency kill switch and the MoT in the UK..............On my Bullet '65 I have the ignition key, the de-compressor and the red, emergency kill switch.....When I bought the bike earlier this year the seller drew my attention to the fact that the kill switch wasn't working but assured me that}---"It's OK mate, it passed it's last MoT like that".........So, shall I}--- a) Leave things as they are ??.........or b) Remove the red tumbler part of the switch and blank it over ??

At the moment I don't have any great amount of spare time to do electrical fault-finding.... and the MoT expired recently...

It's not tested on the MOT.



Probably something in construction and use regs about having one but equally, I suspect it's redundant on a bike with a valve lifter. I once MOTed a CB125 with a "one wire loom" from the points to the coil and an air klaxon on the bars for a horn. No lights and the only way to kill the engine was to stall it.



https://www.mot-testing.service.gov.uk/ ... 000101.htm

Just a thought have you pondered on the possible consequences of NOT having a functioning kill switch?

I've experienced the consequences of not having a way of killing the engine. I once had a suzuki T500 on which the throttle stuck open while doing 90mph approaching a corner. No kill switch and the ignition key was located below the top yoke where I couldn't reach it.



Pulling the clutch would have been an option but would have blown the motor. I managed to pull it up on the brakes halfway round the corner, no mean feat considering the utterly useless TLS unit it had fitted. Twitchy bum time!



However, a bullet has an ignition switch you can reach from the riding position and if that's not working, it has a decompressor lever. So I'd imagine the consequences of not having a functioning kill switch on a bullet are pretty much non existant.



All the above notwithstanding. I've only ever used the kill switch on a motorcycle for turning mates bikes off as I ride past them.

I suppose it's the old "if it's fitted it has to work" routine regardless of whether it was a legal requirement when the bike was built. So, easier to remove it rather than try and talk the tester out of their decision which hardly ever works!

REgards, Mark

Hi Guys and thanks for those swift responses......In an earlier life I was responsible for the MoT preparation and presentation of HGV and light commercial vehicles ( Royal Mail ) so was tending to think along the same lines as you Mark M ie}--- if it's not on there then it can't be tested...so off it comes then !!.........

Hi Papasmurf..re}--- riding with no kill switch fitted....This is one of those oddities of motoring law ie}--- When a safety upgrade is required to be fitted after a given date then why aren't all the previously made models of the same type required to be retro-fitted the same device ??...

Hi Stinkwheel....That would be a "Daylight MoT" then...Switching your mates engines off via the emergency switch ??..........Naughty but fun !!..I managed to do it unintentionally to myself on the previous Bullet '65 with the long cuff on my old Army gauntlets...Had me puzzled for ages until a younger person pointed it out to me !!..........You think that's bad ??------My 1970's Honda CB750 wouldn't start at work one evening.( 19.30 hrs)...It motored over ok but no spark ( The No.2 and No.3 plugs are a particular PAIN to remove for testing.. ) It was normally parked in the dedicated motorcycle shed not far from the Apprentices Training Building so they collectively came in for some choice Anglo-Saxon words of parental doubt etc.....Eventually, after checking fuses, connections, battery etc it dawned on me that the kill switch was in the "off" position.........Then a bit more dawned on me ie}--- It was ME who had left it like that at 06.00 that morning.....Then a bit MORE dawned on me ie}---- The 750 Hondas of the day only had the ignition side wired via the Kill switch, the starter motor would still operate !!....So it was a TRIPLE DOH ! day for young Alan R .....But here's the really good news}--- No one was around to see it !!---Yee-Har !!..........I kept shtum about that for many,many weeks thereafter...

"I suppose it's the old "if it's fitted it has to work" routine regardless of whether it was a legal requirement when the bike was built. So, easier to remove it rather than try and talk the tester out of their decision which hardly ever works!"



A fail has to be one of the specific points listed as a "reason for rejection" in the testers manual. They can do an advisory on anything they want.



I'm pretty sure that old saw comes from the pre '86 regs on indicators and brake light switches. On a pre 1986 bike, if indicators are fitted, they are testable and have to work, if none are fitted, it isn't a fail. So if they are ropy, you need to either remove them or tape them over (including the switch and dash light). Same for brake light switches. If there are two, they both have to work, if there's only one, that's fine too.



I've talked testers out of decisions on several occasions when they have been wrong. It's very simple. You just ask them to point out where in the manual it says that is a fail. If they can't show you, they usually look suitably embarrased. The 1968 PC50 pedal and pop moped I used to ride around when I was at college in the late 90's was always a subject for discussion at MOT time. I'd carefully point out it's age and the fact it can be moved by pedals before the test but it regularly failed on lack of full beam, no brake lights and bald tyres. It didn't actually need the first two and the tyres had to have visible tread. One tester looked a bit exasperated and asked "What the hell am I supposed to be testing then?" to which I replied that they usually check the horn works and ping the spokes with a spanner.

What I meant is that Alan will have to disable the kill switch (as he suggested) if if he doesn't know if it's a testable item. I too have talked a tester out of fail decisions, memorably when he wanted to fail my Moto Guzzi on leaking fork seals as a lack of damping and I pointed out that the dampers in Guzzi forks are cartridge items and the oil plays no part in damping, it's there as lubricant. The apprentice passing by confirmed this (he was studying motorcycle technology at the South London College up the road,) and the resulting argument got the boss involved who ruled in my favour. Mind you, he did say, let ME test your bikes next time! Thankfully we have a more knowledgable and enlightened regime where I get my bikes done these days...

REgards, Mark

Hi all,
a short while ago I purchased a pair of LED running lights for my 350 classic from our hosts I received a
dip switch with them for control. Not wishing to clutter the h/bars I decided to use the Kill switch. I
disconnected the wires from the switch and joined them together. I then wired the switch into the light circuit.
Perfect and no problems with the MOT.
Ray.

We get nutters in aust to, drags er185 from garage not been ridden since last rego check,hosed it off bit of spray lube on chain, 300metres up for check failed leaking oil would not listen about lube on chain, rode home put pressure washer on chain and spkt back up passed. Is there a course for these blokes or do you just have to be stupid.
Had trouble explaining to another that lights dont work til engine is running.
Experts X the unknown Spurt a drip under pressure.
Happy New Year to all.