Hitchcocks Forum

I own a Classic 500 2009 which originally had the full EFI/ECU system with all the sensors and all was well until parts started failing and there were very few places to go for repair and the cost was increasingly prohibitive. So I started the simplification process by changing to an Amal Concentric - instant reduction in at least 9 sensors and associated cabling, but why stop there, who needs a MIL light, Low fuel light, etc. performance was more predictable and stable and maintaining an Amal is very easy.
I am now going through a ground up rebuild and ditching all unnecessary weight and 'stuff' that modern bikes are given and I keep coming back to the same question - why do I still need an ECU if all I have left is :- TEST (20), PG1 (35), PG2 (36), K-LINE (10), IG (18), IGP (1), CRK.P (3), CRK.M (9), SG (24), NLSW (34), LG (8) 11 out of 22 left - How many more do I not need?

Has anyone else gone through this process and got a wiring diagram to share?
Is there a 3Phase Magneto and starter motor Wiring Diagram without and ECU out there?

NB: I never had a kick start, but I could ditch the starter and go kick only, but I am happy with the starter, for now.

Ben

Hello BEN------ now I'm going to play "Devils Advocate" here and start off by asking if you have cleared all this with your Insurance Company first ??........Uh-oh, I can already hear some of this Forum's contributors saying}---- "Oh blimey, here he goes again!!....Carping-on about telling the Insurance when all we want to do is enjoy our bikes !!!" ..........So just one question then ---> -----> "Is it worth the risk" ??......Why not contact them before you go any further and ask for their advice ??...I'll go away now....

Ignition advance/rpm/throttle...


Adapt the 350 Classic (carb equiped) throttle position switch.




Reliant on K starting?


Not advised??? Extended use of the kstart results in wear to the shaft housing and oil leaks. The K Start is primarily for ornamental purposes

Insurance Co? Nothing being done here that affects; safety, suspension, brakes or cubic capacity.


Its not them, but the Eco Nazis who we need to be on to.


How any one can take the 'old' Bullet which could comfortably achieve +100mpg with its outdated combustion chamber design, and turn it into a motor with less output and a greater thirst is the real crime!


And dont try to argue that 100 mpg is a 'pie in the sky' figure for the 350 Bullet; it is very achievable!


In 1949 Trihard achieved both 100MPH and 100MPG from the 650 Thunderbird. Best mileage they got from the same motor was 155MPG!


Getting off topic here, but lets see if the new Interceptor can match that?

Hi Guys-------Hi TIM, no what I'm talking about has nothing to do with the environment, etc, etc. but is a matter of Insurance Protocol or procedure if you like.. ....When you first take out some Insurance ( Car, Bike, House, Boat, Plane, et. al ) you will invariably be asked if the item concerned is "As built" or to "Standard Spec." or has had any changes done to it that deviates from the manufacturer's original specs ??...You then sign to say that all is as original.....Later on some low-life driver smacks you up the rear through no fault of you own....You put in a claim for damages, the Insurance assessor arrives to check out your "pride and joy"--- sees the carb. in place of the fuel injection (and associated electrics etc ).system and reports it back to H/Q.....Suddenly you have either a much-reduced pay-out OR none at all..It's this "Not declaring a change from standard specs" that we have to be wary of.....All I'm suggesting is that BEN checks it out with his insurers first...

Insurance contracts are contracts “uberrimae fidei” (of the utmost good faith). This means that if you don’t tell the truth or fail to mention something on the proposal form that materially affects the risk and hence the premium, the insurance company is legally entitled to void the contract should this come to light. That said it is perfectly simple to find an insurance company that is amenable to modified vehicles. I have also junked the EFI on my C5 and replaced it with a carb. I declared this to the insurance company, which was perfectly happy that the modification won’t affect the risk by turning the bike into a fire-breathing monster. To answer the OP’s question, I view the ECU on my bike as little more than an electronic ignition module - I certainly don’t want to go back to two bits of metal bashing together to initiate a spark...I see it as the equivalent of a Boyer or similar and am happy to leave it on the bike. I would love a clear wiring diagram (mine in the workshop manual is a smudgy, illegible mess). I’d like to junk the MIL instrument, which now only tells me that the ignition is on (the neutral light does that) and that the fuel level sender thinks that maybe the fuel needs to be replenished sometime in the next fortnight, unless ethanol has dissolved the sender yet). This is unnecessary now that I have a reserve tap. I’d like to put something useful like an ammeter in the place where the MIL instrument currently resides. My problem is whether or not disconnecting then taping up the wires to the MIL would cause any problems. I do know that one of them serves to light up the MIL when there is a fault - obviously mine is now lit all the time as the squirt hardware of the EFI no longer exists on the bike but has been retained in case they ever introduce emission testing for bikes. But what of the other wires? How do you get to nine redundant sensors? Are there really that many concerned only with the fuelling side of EFI?