CYLINDER REMOVAL
Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 6:47 pm
Any tips on removing the cylinder on my 2005 Bullet 500.The head came off Ok but the cylinder will not budge.I have slacked the two crank case bolts but the cylinder will not move.
Hitchcocks Forum
The official message boards of Hitchcocks Motorcycles
https://messageboard.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/
CYLINDER REMOVAL
https://messageboard.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7971
Page 1 of 2
CYLINDER REMOVAL
Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 7:07 pm
I had this once, I took the studs out then got a ratchet strap round the barrel and it twisted off.
CYLINDER REMOVAL
Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 8:35 pm
Thanks PeteF . I will give your suggestion a try.
CYLINDER REMOVAL
Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 8:40 pm
Take the head/barrel studs out and it will come off easier. Use 2 nuts on the end of the studs lock nut style and you will be able to unscrew them.
CYLINDER REMOVAL
Posted: Mon Nov 27, 2017 8:45 pm
Don't forget the nut beside the tappet cover
colin
colin
CYLINDER REMOVAL
Posted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 12:21 am
THIS ONE}---------> --------> -------->
CYLINDER REMOVAL
Posted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 6:37 am
Hi, I usually undo all the bolts and give the kickstarter a good kick and the compression breaks the joint. VINCE
CYLINDER REMOVAL
Posted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 8:13 am
I don't think that will work with the head off?. ðŸ˜
CYLINDER REMOVAL
Posted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 8:55 am
This problem is usually caused by the washers deforming them and compressing the alloy underneath and around the studs.
Run a drill through the stud holes prior to reassembly and perhaps fit thicker washers (Part No.90123) to prevent same next time round.
Run a drill through the stud holes prior to reassembly and perhaps fit thicker washers (Part No.90123) to prevent same next time round.
CYLINDER REMOVAL
Posted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 10:54 am
The washers will already have been removed if the head is off.
Removing the head studs should do the trick as binary mentions.
I take the studs out routinely now if I'm removing the head, makes the job very simple. To do this, I've fitted a set of Hitchcocks cylinder head studs with a square end that you can get the wrong end of a 1/4" drive socket on then undo with a big allen key with the cylinder head in place. The head comes off with a light tap from a rubber mallet. If I want the barrel off too, I undo the last nut at the bottom and it has enough slack to twist it side to side then lift off by hand.
I do also have an M8 thread repair kit in my workshop in case of damage to the crankcase threads but haven't needed it yet. When I first fitted the new studs, I found the threads in the crankcase to be a ludicrously poor fit, they weren't cut deeply enough to allow the new studs to screw in easily. I suspect this is down to worn tooling. I can highly recommend running a greased tap down the holes while the studs are out.
Replacing the studs seems an expense but it's saved me a lot of blue language over the years.
Removing the head studs should do the trick as binary mentions.
I take the studs out routinely now if I'm removing the head, makes the job very simple. To do this, I've fitted a set of Hitchcocks cylinder head studs with a square end that you can get the wrong end of a 1/4" drive socket on then undo with a big allen key with the cylinder head in place. The head comes off with a light tap from a rubber mallet. If I want the barrel off too, I undo the last nut at the bottom and it has enough slack to twist it side to side then lift off by hand.
I do also have an M8 thread repair kit in my workshop in case of damage to the crankcase threads but haven't needed it yet. When I first fitted the new studs, I found the threads in the crankcase to be a ludicrously poor fit, they weren't cut deeply enough to allow the new studs to screw in easily. I suspect this is down to worn tooling. I can highly recommend running a greased tap down the holes while the studs are out.
Replacing the studs seems an expense but it's saved me a lot of blue language over the years.