Hitchcocks Forum

Question to all you bike mechanics/engineers out there. I have seen bolted fittings in this order, starting at the nut, then a spring washer then a plain washer and then the main frame, more difficult to write than draw. I thought putting a plain washer under the spring washer negated its action to stop the nut/bolt unscrewing. There could be an argument for doing this if bolting together 'soft' material like aluminium. Any thoughts?

Rightly or wrongly I've always done this. I try avoid putting a spring washer directly against a finished surface. I don't normally suffer from nuts coming loose.

Graham,
That's the way most automotive and aerospace fasteners are done.
The lockwasher is to maintain axial tension, not "grip" any surfaces.

Whilst we are on spring washers, what is the general opinion when using "starwashers", "wavewashers" and "nordlocks", and any other lockwasher I have missed, just a professional interest not critisms

Nut screws washer, and bolts !! ......

These days my preference is to use Nyloc nuts onto a plain washer..( Stainless if available )....I think it looks neater, they are cheap enough and available down to 2BA or less.....

I read about some experiments on fasteners coming loose under vibration. Apparently spring washers and those serrated "shakeproof" washers had no effect at all. Nyloc nuts worked but the effect was less each time you re-used them. Nordlock washers were the most effective.

P.S. and I think those nyloc-type nuts with the metal insert were better than nylocs.

(2nd. attempt)-------Alan R - this the wrong thread for innuendo (sorry, couldn't resist it).
Ed - the experiments were carried independently, or by Nordlok ?......just thinking.....

Alan R I agree I use the nylock type for new stuff, but I am building a replica 1950s bike with a Villiers 192cc engine so avoiding nylock.
I shall have to look up Nordlock. Thank you all for your replies, I knew I could rely on this knowledgeable forum.