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[skidmarks]

my 2015 RE DesertStorm has a death wobble it starts about 60-65kph! mounted a new tyre, air pressure, wheel is centered, forks ok, etc etc please any suggestion

[2cvandy]

If the problem started after fitting the new tyre it's likely that's where the problem lies. There's a fitting guide from MCN here -
http://www.motorcyclenews.com/new-rider ... our-tyres/ - but the important bit here is no'12 ("inflate the tyre until the sidewalls seat on the rim, moulded lines on the tyre will be visible all the way round, near the rim, and at an even distance)." - If the line isn't even all the way round it won't run right. Is it properly balanced? Or I guess it's possible the tyre is faulty? Good luck.

[binary]

How long have you had the Desert Storm. Did you buy it new or second hand. If the head bearings come loose the motorcycle will not handle. You have to put the motorcycle on the centre stand. Jack up the bike under the front part of the engine until the front wheel is off the ground. Walk to the front of the forks and grab the forks tubes in each hand and push and pull the forks toward and away from you. You will feel any play and if there is any play you will have to adjust it out. Loosen the bottom fork bracket bolts right off. Get a large socket and do up the steering stem nut the big one between the ignition switch and the ammeter until all the slack is taken up when you pull and push on the fork tubes. When all the slack is taken out of the steering head bearings leave the big nut where it is and do up the fork bracket bolts and that is it done. A friend of mine some years ago bought a brand new AVL that no matter what he did to it always had poor road handling at 60 MPH and above. He was in his 70s so he very seldom went above 50 MPH and just put up with it.

[Tim NZ]

You will also need to loosen of the steering stem pinch bolt; its hex-head is visible just below the handlebar clamp...

[stinkwheel]

Are the engine mounts intact and properly tightened?

Are your wheel bearings ok?

[binary]

Just noticed that you said that the wobble of death starts at 60-65 KPH. This is like 30-35 MPH which is very slow indeed for a wobble to appear. To loosen the "pinch bolt" which is the "headlamp casing clip bolt" in my workshop manual you will need a 5mm Allen key. If you look under the bracket that holds the handle bars on you will see it in the middle between the bottom bracket bolts. If you have not seen it before look carefully and you will find it. It does not have to be loosened off very much, just a small amount. If you do it up too tight it may stop the steering from going from lock to lock, so just snug it up when you tighten it.

[Tim NZ]

Shift your weight back/forwards; which move makes it worse/better? What is it like with a passenger aboard?


Did you change the tire section?


Try the rear shock with the spring set on its hardest setting...


All telescopic front end bikes have a potential 'speed wobble' zone, most often at the speeds you are experiencing a problem at, some when accelerating others when decellerating. (bikes used to have steering dampers to nullify the effect) Changes to tire section and ride height will shift the 'instability' zone... All of which will be made worse if the front wheel in particular is out of balance of the tire not fully up on the bead?

[papasmurf]

Skidmarks, have you had the tyre and wheel balanced?

[hagis]

Have you mounted your new tyre with the pink spot opposite the valve ?. When tyres are manufactured the makers mark the heavy side of the tyre with a pink spot, this should be opposite the valve, it does sound like a wheel balance problem. On my bullet I have a carrier with a two helmet box, if there is a heavy weight in this box it does affect front end handling at low speeds, so if you have put any extras on rear of bike this will upset the balance of the bike and may cause poor handling on the front end.

[binary]

Hi skidmarks did you manage to fix your death wobble. Were any of the suggestions helpful.