Hitchcocks Forum

Has anyone fitted the SPLINED CLUTCH UPGRADE 90057 to an Electra 500? Pros/cons, is it Bullet proof? Trying to find a problem free(ish) clutch.

We have one on our 350 racer, with the 5 speed gearbox. Ours originated from Burton Bike Bits, but Hitchcocks now sell them. I had to renew the clutch drum after 10 years of racing, as the sprocket teeth were starting to get a bit worn and sharp. One finger clutch operation [if you really have to], no slip, no drag, excellent.

The std Bullet clutch can cope with upwards of 50Hp; I run the stock Indian clutch plates, springs, hubs and chainwheel in Interceptors without any problems.


Most issues with the clutch originate from buckled/burnt/glazed plates, as a result of poor adjustment and over heating due to slippage/drag.


Overfilled primary with oil will cause slipping until the oil is thrown clear, which with the Electra X and the stock engine breather is always a potential problem: disconnect the drain from the Catch-can to the Chaincase. DONT overfill the chaincase with oil, all you need is for the chain to dip into the oil.


ATF or light Hydraulic oil are far superior in wet clutches than any engine oil.


If you convert to Right foot shift, (?) you can fit the Interceptor Clutch pressure plate kit 90044. It is a far superior pressure plate that copes with +60 Hp easy peasy.


(Any one with a 4 Speed 'box would need to have the Gbox outer cover strengthening kit fitted...)

My name is merely Paul Henshaw, personally I doubt whether Paul Daniels could get a standard R.E. clutch to cope with 50+ bhp and operate as well as the one we are using on the 350. Incidentally, the 500 uses a dry Newby belt clutch, just like many other high powered R.E.'s I have worked on, including singles and twins of 500, 612, 700 and 736 cc. Working within their limits, the R.E. clutches can work very well and all mine run in 20/50 oil, just like their engines, gearboxes and forks. On our first 500 racer, around 2004/5, we had the R.E. clutch, with heavy springs and running dry, with spray on chain lube for the primary chain - it was horrible, with Ian using a 'stress toy' to exercise his fingers to try and strengthen them, to cope. It didn't slip or drag [much] but it wasn't fit for racing, or what turned out to be about 38 bhp at the time.

I have this type of clutch fitted to my Mk1 Interceptor but I made it myself from components I collected separately; a Mk1 plain bearing centre and a late Mk2 spline basket with a mix of plates to suit. I have 3 bikes with variations of clutches, a dry belt Newby, a standard plain bearing type on an Inter and the one I described. The one I built with the splined basket is easily the best for lightness of springs and ease of use generally. And I also agree with Paul about the "standard" clutch being suitable. It all depends how much you want to work on them and experiment, and don't forget, many of the problems in the clutch can be traced to poor adjustment of the primary or pushrod or detent plunger adjustment! Incidentally, if you fit the Newby clutch you lose the clutch centre cush drive and I find this makes the transmission harsher. Might not bother everyone but to me the smooth power take up is one of RE's best features.

REgards, Mark