Hitchcocks Forum

Hi Guys

i need your opinion on engine rebuild. recently bought 350 G2 Bullet engine from around 1952
the guy said it was lying there for 20-25 years.

Should i dismantle the engine or use the engine as it is
i have new barrel/standard piston rings. whats your opinion ?



Regards

Oh not another photobucket failure, GET OFF THAT USELESS SITE AND FIND A DECENT ONE GUYS!!! (You need to post the HTML code to get the picture to show on here.)



Sorry e-t, rant over.



Well I can't see the picture, but I would seriously advise that, if you can't strip the engine yourself, at least get it stripped by someone who knows their stuff and check the state of all the main components, Bullet Whisperer (Performance Classics) down in South Wales would sort you out, amongst others. I would really not want to fit a new top end to a bottom end of unknown quality, even a Redditch original, that has been left that long. You MIGHT get away with it, or it could all very easily end in tears.



A.

There may be no need to strip the engine. It all depends on what conditions it was stored in.
I'd have the head and barrel off to check the piston and big end and go from there.
After that, if all looks good, sort the electrics (which probably will have suffered) clean the fuel system and, with a bit of luck, that might be all that's required.

Yes, exactly what Pete F says. The reasoning is this, with the head and barrel off (and primary cover and timing cover), you will be able to see and test the condition of all the major components well enough to make a decision as to whether the main bearings are in good condition and if the story you have been told abut the engine seems to be true. You should also flush out the bottom of the engine with some solvent, there are 2 brass plugs and filters on these engines that can get clogged with oil residue and need to be clean. You don't say if there is a magneto fitted, if there isn't you'll need to take the timing cover off anyway so inspect the timing gear as you do. Likewise the primary cover if fitted, you need to check the chain and clutch components. The clutch runs on tiny ball bearings and these can rust up during long storage. Post some pics and we can all see what you have. If it is suspect Paul the Bullet Whisperer is your man, there are others capable of doing this too. (Me for instance!)

REgards, Mark

Compression, spark, fuel/air. That's all it needs to run. I can only speak for myself, but If oil pores out of the quill bolt before you first start it, chances are, the bottom end and timing side have been inhibited/preserved enough to start the engine safely. Kick it over a few times to ensure oil pumps work satisfactorily and also check correct valve train operation before you start it. Good luck

I'll also add, check bore for any rust. I've had a few that have rusted which obviously isn't ideal.

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Hello Mr Trials-------- I read this listing in straight, chronological order and agreed in the main with our contributors.....That was until I came across the photo........... I think "SHIYZZLE-BURGER!!" came out first followed by other Expletives (Deleted) a la Nixon, Richard Millhous style.....That external condition is a very good indicator of the way in which this unit was / wasn't cared for when initially laid-up.....It's also a good indicator of the prevailing conditions where the unit was kept...........Referring to the photo, remove the tappet adjuster cover ( One lever nut ) and see if the insides are oily---dry---clean---dirty etc...........Remove the oil filler cap and have a view inside AND a sniff...Foul and rancid or fresh/neutral smelling.....Next remove the timing cover and look/smell for oily, dry, foul-smelling or clear...Incidentally that gearbox will also need similar attention.. Finally remove the oil filter cover etc over a drain tray........By now you should be getting a general idea as to the internal condition.....As an Ex-Military Engineer working in a "Base Repair Workshops" environment ( SCALY knows what I mean ) on CV8 and CV12 Diesels, TN15 Semi-Auto gearboxes etc. then that would get a "FULL BASE" overhaul BUT, if presented to me out in a field unit then my comments--along with MARK M et al would apply........... Helpful Tip}--- Unless you really have to, try avoiding rotating the crank and dismantle as it is...Reason?}--- You may have damaged or semi-damaged gear teeth and a rotation will cause more damage = ££££££££££ or $$$$$$$$$$$ ....Just a thought but you'll have to remove the crank oil bolt in the timing case as the original seal was a cork "stopper"....Mr H. has a lovely neoprene replacement for that ...

Trying to translate (!) Alan R's remarks - do you really mean to suggest that THAT engine DOESN'T need a rebuild!?! If it was mine it would have the full works treatment - no question, no ifs or buts. That motor is in a 'state'!!

Hi PRESTO---------If I may para-phrase you ??}---That motor APPEARS to be in a state... Just trying to say that you can't judge a book etc...A steady, methodical approach MIGHT ( I repeat MIGHT ) just save our friend some time and money......But then first impressions or a Gut Feeling shall we say ? tend to be right...