Forum

[ShaunaManx]

Hi Folks,

I'm a new Bullet Owner 2010 Classic EFI, low KM well maintained bike...

I bought the bike 3 weeks ago, she fired right up ran good, we loaded her up hauled her home (in the rain and snow) unloaded the next morning, she fired up again (no ride, no insurance) next day all insurance geared up to ride my mothers day present (to myself)... and bike won't start.

For the last 3 week my husband and I (and 3 other bike mechanics friends) have literally check ever part of the bike from top to bottom. We have GREAT SPARK (I have bough 3 different new plugs, and tested them for consistency and faults) we have fuel (pressure and flow) dumped the tank twice now, fresh gas, we have compression, Hubby cleaned and inspected the fuel injector, we have checked all fused and connections. We did a diagnostic and got the CODE 65_ Crank Shaft Sensor, error, so we opened the crank case, inspected the sensor, visually looked OK no corrosion, etc... changed the oil. Tried a fuel throttle full choke start (read somewhere here about a reset start option) the error light did not stay on, so may just be a factory setting, I've read these errors are not all that accurate.

Anyways.. My husband is ready to toss my new bike down the mountain, and we live about 8 hours from the nearest Royal Enfield repair shop (in British Columbia Canada).. and we are vintage Honda riders, new to all these sensors and fuel injectors, but I was hopefully this bike would mean less wrenching more riding.. but so far this is NOT the case!... this is our first Enfield.. Learning lots over the past 3 weeks!

Any of this sound familiar to any of you??? Open to ANY IDEA, before I pay to have my brand new un-enjoyed garage ornament hauled away for diagnosis...

[EddyQ]

Shame your having so much trouble, a few simple checks, when you turn the ignition on can you hear a whirring sound from inside the tank? If so the fuel pump is getting power. Second try it with the side stand up, I had a bullet a few weeks ago that cranked over but would not start and it was the stand switch.just popped the stand up and down a few times and it fired up. Don't get disheartening but it sounds like you with the best intentions have done a lot of unecessary in am attempt to solve the problem, there great bikes

[ShaunaManx]

Thanks Eddy...

The side stand kill switch is actually disconnected (I check check double checked that)
... and yes I can here the fuel pumping when I engage the key... when we opened up the fuel hose it was priming with about 1/2 cup of fuel.

Cheers, I do appreciate your ideas!

[Chris [Stockport]]

Maybe a quick spray of Easy-Start or something similar, and if it then runs you'll have more to go on?
Are all your other electrics switched off while trying to start it, so no electricity is "wasted"?

Good luck, Chris

[Andy M]

Do you still have code 65? I'm afraid looking at the sensor doesn't tell you much. You need to change it if the code is still there. Also do a multimeter check on thd sensor to ECU wiring,

Andy

[ric]

If the ECU is telling you there is a sensor fault, then it means there's a problem somewhere between the sensor and the ECU - the fault could be anything from a disconnected or corroded connector block, a chafed wire anywhere between the ECU and the sensor or a problem with the sensor itself.

At one point numerous RE EFI's seemed to be plagued with faulty TPS units (according to the fault code) all of which (as far as I'm aware) turned out not to be the TPS unit but was because the connector block had not being fully pushed home and locked into the sensor connection in the factory and eventually worked loose with vibration causing the problem.

[ShaunaManx]

Ahh interesting...

Re: The error code: There was never any error light present on the console... we just did the diagnostic test to see if we could identify source of the issue. And I do understand, or at least have since read that the 65 code is a factory default which will stay in the memory until it's cleared?. But fact remains that there are no malfunction lights indicated at all. on the console, and we have not re-run the test for a reading since we got the 65 error. And after doing the reading the malfunction light did not stay lite... which gives me some hope?


Super interesting insights on the wiring conditions and disconnection... We thought right out of the gate that there must have been a loose wire or fuse (as it started great the day before with no changes)... but have checked all connections and fuses... Might do that all over again, and ensure all the quick clips are really well seated. Especially following the line back from the ECU to the crank sensor.

I have never heard of a easy-start spray, but I am keen to try anything at this point! I'll try to track some down.

A friend had suggested maybe the ground wire from the motor wasn't properly grounded to the frame and upon further inspection, we couldn't find a ground wire from the motor at all?.. The previous owner had wired in a old model T ford horn and added a relay and played with wringing a bit... but his work seems tidy, but left me wondering, is there a ground wire at all off the motor? or was that used in the horn addition?

[ric]

On my 2015 model the engine is grounded via one of the starter motor Allen bolts, hidden behind a plasti-chrome cover.

[zonggong]

In previous posts I haven't seen any mention of checking the battery voltage. The EFIs are a bit precious on starting voltage. Another thing to check is the connectors on the battery. We've had a number fail - they broke off at the right angle bend - check that it hasn't started to come apart and can't pass the required starting current. Also, i've had some trouble with the interlock switch on the clutch. According to the wiring diagram it is in parallel with the interlock switch on the side stand so one or the other needs to be connected for starting.
Good luck withy it.

[2cvandy]

Good advice re battery and connections. As for the clutch switch, mine caused problems but it stops the starter operating, so if the engine is spinning, it's probably not that. Just in case it's any help, I bypassed the clutch switch on mine, unplug the connector from the switch end, chop off the wire 6" or so from where it comes out the back of the headlamp, join the black and brown wires together, isolate the green wire, then tuck the lot inside the headlamp and forget about it. (colours relate to 2009 Electra EFI - as always with Enfield, other colour wiring may well be available,,,,,,,,,,,,). I've also disconnected the sidestand switch, but used the wiring for that to fit a hidden immobiliser. Good luck, and please let us know what the problem was when you eventually solve it.