Hitchcocks Forum

Ok, i'll put my hands up and admit i know bugger all but i've bought a 2007 Electra X to "learn the basics".

I'm suffering from the usual :- 'Cannot get neutral when in gear'

I've been adjusting the clutch to no avail but on one of my test runs i started suffering from 'clutch drag' (moving even when clutch is in).

I've made countless adjustments and have got myself in a twist!

Statement :- The clutch adjustment screw "should be tightened until there is resistance then backed out 1/2 a turn".

Question :- If the adjustment screw is too far out/loose as i understand it there should be more 'gear slip' as it is 'not engaged'. Is the correct assumption?

That may be common with the 4 speeder,not the 5 speed though.Go into the inspection cover,make sure the angle between the cable and lever is correct.Actually this sounds like the clutch hub nut is coming loose.Have you had that off recently?

Hi Lee. The clutch adjustment does not adjust the clutch in terms of grip or slip. It simply adjusts the end free play of the clutch operating lever and clutch push rod. These need a tiny gap just to make sure there is no pre-loading on the ends to avoid them heating up with friction. Before adjusting the clutch push rod screw on the RHS of the gearbox. Slacken off the clutch cable at the lever or cable adjuster so there is plenty of slack. Undo the nut on the gearbox adjuster and screw out the adjuster screw until it becomes loose then screw it back in again until you feel the screw tighten as it takes up the push rod clearance. Then turn back the screw half a turn and tighten the locknut making sure the screw does not turn with it. Then readjust cable for a 1/8” clearance at the clutch lever. See if this helps with the clutch drag. If not….Remove the chaincase, pull in the clutch lever and kick over the engine. Watch the clutch pressure plate revolve…it must rotate perfectly squarely with the clutch and not wobble in and out. If it wobbles then one or more of the springs have lost their tension so should be replaced with a complete new set (Quite cheap) if you have to replace the springs, take the opportunity to remove all the plates and wash them in paraffin or petrol and reassemble dry. Also check the central clutch fixing nut is still tight. Make sure the clutch drum slots for the friction plates have not been roughened up and are smooth…clean up with file if they have......So one thing at a time, should end up with a good non dragging clutch.

As LesH says but if you dismantle the clutch also check that non of the plates are warped. Place them on a piece of glass and make sure they sit flat all around. The manual says nothing about backing off the adjusment screw merely adjust until pressure felt and the tighten the lock nut. Feeling where that resistance is can be tricky but it helps to use a small screwdriver lightly held between the thumb and one finger. 90% of people will diagree with me here but I've found using 15/40 engine oil in the primary rather than ATF helps with drag.

Hi Frank. The reason I suggest slackening off first is to allow the feel to be ascertained with certainty, especially for someone who is not familiar with the adjustment. You must be aware, having made the adjustment yourself, that you can fairly easily continue to tighten past the contact point If the adjustment has been previously done incorrectly or the normal clutch plate wear has allowed all free movement to be taken up then further tightening can be erroneously made. By turning the screw out first until quite slack allows the user to gently screw it back in until the very first contact is made. If done this way to give an initial looseness of the screw, the point of screw contact with the push rod is felt distinctly without ambiguity and therefore an accurate setting can be then locked in with the nut after slackening one half turn form that contact point.

Hi Les, yes understood and agree although I was referring to the slackening of the adjuster 1/2 a turn after contact has been made. There seems to be minimal throw in the mechanism anyway so any slack between the actuating arm and push rod will reduce it further. That said I can see your point about the heat build up. At the end of the day, sadly, no adjustment will make a perfect clutch on these machines!

Frank,
Most important thing here it is a 5 speed box, not a 4 speed

Hi Norm. Yes, when Lee said his instructions for his gearbox was: "The clutch adjustment screw should be tightened until there is resistance then backed out 1/2 a turn".... then I and probably Frank assumed the adjustment mechanism was as Lee described...but looking at a diagram of the 5 speed box there is a spiral worm mechanism...is that correct? and if so it is simply a process of leaving some slack on the cable?? If it's different Norm, perhaps you kindly tell Lee how it should be done?

I have one of similar vintage and had similar problems until I replaced the clutch actuating mechanism with the later one (have a look at where the clutch cable enters the gearbox casing near the right foot peg: if the cable enters via a 3" long adapter with a gentle 90 deg bend, you have the new type, otherwise change this and the mechanism inside the gearbox cover) before going any further - it will also prevent broken cables...
Then do as the other guys have said
Hope this helps

Cheers guys. Great advice. So glad i'm on this site. Looks like it is a clutch strip/check when i can convince the wife nothing else in the house needs doing!