Hitchcocks Forum

My 535, 14 reg 2000 miles, gives me a problem from time to time, sometimes when I'm wanting to take the bike out, turn the ignition on, no buz from the fuel pump, some times when I'm out on the bike, it will cut out, same problem, no buz from the fuel pump. It's the kill switch, by tapping the switch, eventually the pump buzzes. I've taken the switch apart a couple of times, cleaned the contacts with an electrics contact spray, and it does the trick. I can't get to the actual contact as its hidden and inaccessible. So, this may be a daft question, but does the team think it's a good idea to always turn the engine off using the kill switch, so as to keep the switch 'in use'

My guess is to NOT use the kill switch in this manner, the arcing makes the contacts pit up after time. The same thing could happen if good contact is not in the run position. With the ignition try exercising the switch......flip it on-off a couple hundred times. In the States we have something called DeOx-It made by Caig. I use it fo all sorts of stuff from call phone battery contact to inside multi pin connectors.

I meant to say with the ignition key off exercise the switch

I too had the same problem with my CGT, after checking switches and relays we found a short in the wiring, Under the rear of the tank there are two connections that go to the fuel injector, the wires for these connectors had been routed over the ends of the head steady bolts, these bolts have sharp threads on the inside and had worn thru the sheathing on the wiring, this was enough to create an occasional short in the wiring giving the same problem as you describe, We moved the wires off the threaded ends of the bolts and problem solved, rubber tube pushed over the threaded ends of the bolts will prevent any further problem.

Personally I think it's a bad idea to use the kill switch to turn off the engine. I've seen a thread on another forum (maybe Triumph related) that indicated that issues arose because the ECU does not shut down properly by doing this. There is also a risk that the ignition is left on by mistake especially if the headlights can be turned off. What I do is set the kill switch to off when I park. A minor deterrent to thick joyriders perhaps - and who honestly has never wondered why the engine won't start only to find the kill switch is off? FWIW I'm not sure the kill switch, introduced in the 70s, is really necessary on bikes with a rollover sensor that cuts the ignitionif the bike falls over anyway. Belts and braces, oh and bulldog clips too if you count the side stand cutout.....

I always put the side stand down to stop the engine, and after turning the ignition on flip it up before starting the engine.
I prefer to use it to make or break the circuit connection as it's the easiest component (and probably the cheapest) to replace. I've read many times that it quickly fails so it's best to disconnect it or remove it at the first opportunity, but once you realise it's adjustable and then realise that many of these 'failures' are probably just a result of a bad factory line assembly, then using it to take some of the load off the (expensive) ignition switch or kill switch seems to be a good idea.

You have to use the ignition switch to turn off the ignition anyway, so I'm not sure what you're saving. One on, once off per ride however you stop the engine. Isn't that what it's for? My sidestand switch was removed long ago. They are nearly always a source of trouble, not just on REs. Still, each to his own and all that.

Neither the pump nor the coil receive any power until the circuit is complete which is why you don't hear the pump pressure the fuel line nor do you get any spark at the plug if the side stand is left down, so what you're saving is that load being passed through the switch contacts at the point of turning the key. Instead that load is being placed on the cheaper and easier to replace side stand switch.
When the contacts burn out a replacement ignition switch is £52 the side stand switch is £22.
Over 16,000 miles and a very corroded plunger later - caused by riding through two salty winters and the only side stand switch problem I've had was the one from new where sometimes the bike wouldn't start unless I gave the side stand a good tap when it was in the ride position to push the switch plunger fully home to complete the circuit. A very simple adjustment and now it makes/breaks the circuit when the stand is halfway through its travel arc.

Easy to imagine the switch would be a good source of trouble to anyone where the switch was not correctly positioned (like mine) at the factory. Every time you rode down a bad road surface the ignition would be cutting in and out as the side stand got bounced off its stop.

In all the years I've been driving and riding the only trouble I've ever had with an ignition switch has been caused by wear in the mechanism through turning the key, not poor contact through poor electrical contact. I doubt that reducing the electrical load has as much impact as moisture penetrating the switch mechanism. In any event, having converted mine to a carb, the current load on the ignition switch is reduced since there is no pump. By contrast I, like several others, have had intermittent faults with the sidestand switch. In my case it was a mysterious misfire. I've had similar problems with sidestand switches on other bikes too.