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Oil change process

Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 4:06 pm
by Ant1972
Hi all

I know this sounds ridiculous but I want to make sure I follow the best process when changing the oil on my 350 Bullet (2008 reg). I am used to land overs with one sump plug and a screw on oil filter so hence the question. Can someone point me in the right direction please. I would like to install the filter spacer and magnet from the shop here also at the same time. I have read that you should soak the new oil filter in new oil before fitting and different orders for removing sump plugs and now I am not so confident. All help appreciated ! Cheers Ant

Oil change process

Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 5:06 pm
by PeteF
It matters not what order you take out the sump plugs but don't undo the gearbox drain by mistake. There are three, the two front ones have filters on. The vast majority of the oil will come out of the rear one and don't be alarmed if there's a bit of water in there as well. Just condensate.
You should also drain the timing chest by removing the quill bolt (big bolt in centre of case)
When you do the filter, just be careful of the spring which can shoot things across the shed, and lay things out so it all goes back in the right order. Soaking the filter is a good idea. I do it in the plastic bag it comes in.
Once you've put the fresh oil in, remove the tappet door, start the engine and let it tick over for a few minutes to check that oil is dribbling down the pushrod tubes. That means oil is circulating properly.
The magnet is probably a good idea but I'm not so sure about the packing piece. Can't do any harm though.
You want the oil level about half way on the dipstick and be aware that the oil you drained from the timing chest needs to be replaced so check the level after a few minutes running.
Dowty washers are a good idea on the sump plugs as they don't need torquing very much and the threads in the crankcase can be a bit suspect.

Oil change process

Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 7:11 pm
by Bet
As a precaution I always take the rocker covers off and pour the last half a litre(ish)over the rockers. This ensures that the cam followers get a bit of lubrication on initial start up.

Oil change process

Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 8:00 pm
by Scalyback
The packing piece just helps to fill a void that would otherwise take time to fill with oil after a draining. Having it installed, helps the oil to reach the tappets and push rods much faster. Both my Iron barrelled bullet and my Meteor Minor have them fitted.

Soaking the filter first has two advantages, firstly, the oil it contains after soaking also helps to fill the void, and like a totally dry dish sponge, a dry filter could take a while to get wet and be more likely to resist oil flow until it begins to saturate.

Oil change process

Posted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 8:53 pm
by Ant1972
Great - thanks all, feel a bit more confident now