Hitchcocks Forum

As I understand it the general rule to modification is wait till after run-in. I plan of doing H's higher compression piston at 535 and adding the cylinder head kit along with a polished chamberr and removing any obvious slag from the ports.

With those parts built up to a higher standard other than the transmission gears what needs run-in. I know the cams run on bushings and the gears will take wear in. The crank as I understand it is not plain bearings so I am hoping the crank bearing are not a wear in item because that would portend eventual failure.

All of the engine needs to be run in, not just the motor, and it can take some 2000 miles to completely loosen up. It very much depends how you do it. The handbook talks of 300 miles (first service) and 600 miles stages. You might change the exhaust system at ~600 miles as is popular and the original is ugly. You would have to check you local legislation regarding getting rid of the catalytic converter, it is a requirement on point of sale here but not afterwards.



Myself, I have added the K&N air filter to the free-flow 50s exhaust, that needs a PCV added. My motor loosened up between 800-1600 miles as I worked at it gradually increasing use of higher revs. The most noticeable improvement is in mid-range torque. The top speed is not improved, it maybe gets there quicker but it is limited by gearing. Using a larger rear tyre or using a bigger cog on the gearbox will let it cruise at lower revs but it is reported this drops the ultimate top speed. Personally I prefer acceleration to cruising, the performance level is just about right for me. The increase in mid-range torque is significant. H reckon this system alone gives a 20% increase in bhp, also smoother power delivery; I reckon that with a few tweaks to the baffles, the low to mid-range torque is increased by rather more than 20%, I've ridden along with standard Bullets ...

This may be of interest -

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nn7uwaG7kPs



The EFI is by no means a road rocket, if you want fast bike performance, get a sports bike. It is however very nimble and I have found I can quite easily lose a Harley on a busy road simply because they cannot manoeuvre.



I would certainly hold off until you have run in the bike and ridden it a lot before adding performance upgrades.

I believe the crank bearings are needle roller, the very same type used by Harley. The engine is actually very robust but RE must be the last manufacturer on earth that require engines to be run in. Pretty much all other manufacturers run engines in on benches before they leave the factory, which runs in the motor not the gearbox.. The whole RE engine needs sympathetic running in, you should be able to feel the engine gradually loosening up (and making less vibration)

I have used this method with good results on new vehicles.

http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

The only parts that effectively need to be 'run-in' with the new engines it the piston, rings and bore. The sealing of the pistons rings to the bore and the temp cycling of the piston are the ONLY parts to be of concern.


All rolling bearings may be considered manufactured to such fine standards as to be able to take full normal loads from outset. All bushes will be effectively bedded within the first 100-200km. Gears DO NOT require to be 'run-in'. The clutch will 'bed-in' and will require adjustment at some point.


Keep the throttle to under 1/2 for the first 200/300km, (Speed is not always a relevant criteria) Change the oil and filter as soon as possible. (There are always LOTS of metallic floater in the initial oil drain) Vary the load and revs, do not Lug the motor. Use the gear box well to keep the motor spinning freely without allowing it to labour unduly.


To generalise, no faster that 80-90Kph for the first 500km, 90-100 there after, and you may consider the motor pretty much run in by 1000km. Do not hold full throttle or high loads for long until after 1500km.


I do not use of a synthetic oil while running-in, but do advise a High Detergent (Diesel) Group 3 base stock oil.


Slowly work up the load the engine does. Rolling off the throttle from time to time will assist in cooling the piston and sucks oil up the bore.

Tim, the operative word is "should". One can actually feel this engine progressively loosening up as we get miles on it, gearbox as well as motor. Yes, you will have to adjust the clutch cable. Yes you will have to adjust the chain as it stretches. And the throttle cables. And so on. All the rotating bits, shafts, cogs and bearings need to bed in until they work well together.

We have numerous reports on here of these engines continuing to improve from 1000-2000 miles



Running in procedure per handbook is 0-300miles (first service) at 35-40mph (50-60kph), although one will probably have problems going that slow in 5th. Vary speed and avoid using more than 1/2 throttle. Very much not 90kph, although I agree you should go more by feel for stress on the engine. You can feel how it is performing, they are quite stiff initially.

From 300-600 miles 45-50mph (80-90kph) and avoid going over 3/4 throttle

Fist service (essentially oil and filter change) at 300 miles. Also re-tighten all loose nuts and bolts (Loctite). Full details given in the service schedule.

Oil is 15W-50 API SL Grade JASO MA Ester semi-synth. The JASO MA is the important bit or the friction plates will come off the wet clutch. Diesel engine oil (synthetic or otherwise) is not suitable (not unless they make a JASO MA version, diesel bikes are rare). I use Mobil 1 15W-50 full synth; I've used Mobil 1 and its ESSO predecessor for well over 30 years with good results in every vehicle. I've had three filters and four oil changes in 2500 miles, possibly excessive but no more metal bits coming out and the oil is staying clean.



My final part of running in, well after those 600 miles, was progressively running it up to higher and higher revs. My finding was that as you use this engine more at high revs, the less it vibrates and the more willingly it revs up. There is a rev limiter on the ECU at 5500rpm. My PCV has got its "RevXtend" function moved to 6000rpm limit but that does not seem to override the ECU limit. I have hit the rev limiter but needless to say I don't routinely rev it that high as most of the grunt is much lower down. The long straight at 5:00 in my video is uphill into the North Downs and like riding over a corrugated roof, it is not flat out.

As Tim says, your only concern is the cylinder/piston interface. Anything else will "run in" by itself quite happily.
Don't be TOO easy on a new engine or you may end up with a glazed bore. Lugging the motor will do more damage than revving so keep it spinning.
I would change the oil after 100 miles, that's when the real wear happens and it can't do any harm.
Just think before you go high compression - the bike will be less tractable if you do.

Listen to Tim, sound advice.

As for this -

" It is however very nimble and I have found I can quite easily lose a Harley on a busy road simply because they cannot manoeuvre"

Another load of old bollox from the master of BS !

Trust me jefrs, if I want to get somewhere quickly I'll leave the Enfield in the garage and take my Harley, it'll piss all over the Bullet without breaking a sweat. Yes the Enfield handles just fine, but leave the comparisons to somebody who owns both eh,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

It all depends on which Harley of course.
And which rider......

"All of the engine needs to be run in, not just the motor". What on earth does that mean? I can't think of a slower 500/535cc bike than the RE. The only HD it might outrun is an old WLA/WLC; having owned an 883 Sportster back in the day I can say categorically that it will leave a CGT for dead, both in standard tune. An asthmatic big 'un will always beat an asthmatic small 'in. As for running in it's really just the piston/rings/ bore that need gentle use before the first oil change, as has been said. It is essential in my view to build up to WOT state at some point, otherwise I doubt that the engine will ever be as good as it could be. Mine smoothed out noticeably after a couple of brief runs at full bore in top. They used to say that you could tell how an engine had been used by where the wear ridge is in the bore, the higher it is the more the engine has been revved.