Hitchcocks Forum

I am removing the Boyer electronic ignition. It is a big step backwards for me.
I followed the procedure described in the manual. My Bullets starts and runs, but with much more difficulty. When using the stroboscopic lamp I see it consistenly has too much advance, even with the plate turned fully clockwise.
Two points are very difficult to accept for me:
- the Bullet starts with much more difficulty: it previously started at the first kick even on a cold morning, at most at the second. Now it takes five to ten kicks, and it always backfires
- I honestly find it so difficult losing the TDC orientation with the ammeter. Not a problem for experienced people, but it frightens me if my Bullet stalls in full Oslo traffic.
My conclusion is that the electronic ignition is a step backwards for me, and needs to be removed. It has zero advantages to me.

If you run out of adjustment turning the plate clockwise, you should simply remove the centre rotor & reposition it (anti-clockwise to retard I believe).
The Ammeter should also still show a discharge with Boyer or Pazon, unless you have taken the power from a different location (bypassing or wrong side of Ammeter wiring. Don't give up now just for the sake of moving that rotor. They are best when timed up correctly.

Quote: "I followed the procedure described in the manual."


Strange. So did I. Never had a problem with it. Fired up straight away and runs like a good 'un...

I second the "try again" motion put forward by Cleggy.

Well it will kickback if it's too advanced, just move the rotor. My bike starts easier with the Boyer now I have it tweaked in properly.

And you'll have just as much trouble timing the old system back in than getting the Boyer right.

Thanks for the replies.
I got it to work correctly. Before sending this not so optimistic message, I had already changed the rotor to get less advance. I had changed it anticlockwise far too much.
I read in the manual that each change multiplies by two by the crankshaft.
So, I did the whole aligning again as described in the manual. Then I changed the rotor a tiny little bit anticlockwise, and now it is correct. Starting is much better, even though I will still have to learn to find the sweet spot for kickstarting. I just took a test drive for more than 50 km, and the engine runs well.