Hitchcocks Forum

After a puncture onSunday, I had to remove the rear wheel last night. Now I must have taken out about 150 rear wheels over the years, but this one was a right awkward cow! should I have left the hug / sprocket / rear brake arrangement bolted to the swing arm and moved the wheel to the left to wiggle it out? I didnt, I took the lot out, which looks a right pig to put back in that way!

You guessed it! Just take the wheel out leaving the brake assembly in situ.

Hi there pd. Mine is an E5 Electra, but I think the rear wheel is the same design. It is a 'quick release' - which means that you remove just the axle nut, and you can then wiggle the axle out. As you pull it through a spacer about an inch and a half long on the non-drive side will fall out and roll somewhere out of sight. You then have enough room to wiggle the wheel sideways off the cush drive and out of the bike. Replacement is the reverse process. Find the spacer first, then hang the wheel on the cush drive, push the axle through the swing arm until it just shows, put the spacer on, push the axle all the way through and tighten it all up. Job's a good'un.
Apologies if the C5 is different.

You may also find it easier to raise the chain guard up 1/2" (slacken off the lower shock nut) when trying to refit the hub assembly

I shouldn't laugh, I really shouldn't.

thanks all.. you should see the bike! chain hoisted into the air so I didn't need to remove the panniers etc!

The mudguard will hinge up but not so simple if you have pillion or dual seat or panniers in the way, the wheel will slide out on the left if you tip the bike well over to the right on the centre stand. Undo and withdraw the spindle then knock the spacer tube out on the left (with the big spanner you just used). Now pull the wheel to the left off the cush drive. The next bit is a little tricky one-man, tip the bike over to the right on the centre stand, basically so it is resting on your knees and thighs, reach over the top and hoick the wheel out of the gap between mudguard and pannier, now lift and set the bike upright. When you put the wheel back, reverse process, remember to set the LHS wheel alignment, mark the cam before removal.



I've done this a few times to get at the brake. It's probably easier with an assistant, or you might lie the bike down or drop the wheel out over a kerb or a step.

If you have taken the brake hub off, that will fit back in without moving the chain guard. It's a bit of a metal puzzle - loop the chain over it and wiggle it up into place chain wheel first. It slots in.



That 'useless' rear drum brake now works perfectly btw, once the cam is unpainted and set to it can slide to centre the shoes under your full weight on the pedal. It took a few goes but it's lovely now.

A blue moon is due tonight - I totally agree with Jeffers!
Some time back I stopped to help a couple of folks with a rear wheel puncture but not for long. The guy looked for & found bits of timber to put under the centre stand to lift the back end high enough to pull the wheel out backwards. The chap could not understand that he could either take the seat & mudguard away quite easily or lean the bike over as per Jeffers. Then he set about disconnecting the chain to remove the whole wheel & brake drum. But it is a QD set up said I, no it ain't said chappie.
At this point I buggered off

I think you have to do it a few times to see what works. Not everyone will be able to lift the bike back upright one-handed whilst pulling the wheel in, assist needed. (I'm 106k, a good 16-stone, I wish I could lose some but I can lift the bike off the deck). It's practice.



I don't carry puncture tools, certainly not a 2-ft long combination ring spanner, that's what the mobile phone is for.