Forum

[Bandit12]

Good evening, I have inherited a 1959 500 big head bullet and would be grateful of some general advice. The bike has been in a garage for 10 years and not run. It is complete and apart from a bit of surface rust appears to be in good order. It kicks over with plenty of compression but I have not tried to start it as the tank has been dry of fuel for all this time and rusty on the inside. The battery is also corroded and dead. I plan on getting the tank professionally sealed and repainted and replacing the dead battery.
My questions concern the engine and gearbox as it has not run or even been turned over for 10 years I feel it prudent to be cautious. Should I do a complete engine strip? I have spoken with the family friend who is a motorcycle engineer and kept it maintained up until 10 years ago when it was put away that it was in full working order and ran well. He informed me that he had a new crank pin fitted 2000 miles before the bike was stored as well as a reconditioned monobloc carb and a few other bits a pieces.
My other question is about a 12 volt conversion. I plan on restoring the bike and riding it on a regular basis so I'm looking for reliability instead of absolute originality. As I'm taking the bike apart and I need a new battery and wiring loom for it anyway, (battery is dead and wiring loom is corroded) is this a worthwhile upgrade or should I just keep it simple and 6volt?

Any advice is gratefully appreciated

Bandit

[Mark M]

I'd drain the oils (engine, primary case and gearbox,) and replace. Change the oil filter while you're at it. Don't seal the tank, that's just creating a problem (with detaching liner) for the future, just get it de-rusted. Clean the carb, properly mind, ultrasonic cleaning is probably best rather than mess about. Clean and check the points. Then get a cheap 6 volt battery and see if it runs. The chances are it will be ok and if it does run you can check the electrics are working. The only reason to change to 12 volt electrics is if you plan to use the bike a lot at night. Modern LED bulbs (I can tell you where to get the best,) are superb and will easily run off 6 volts and as you (should) have coil ignition on a Bighead all else will be well. Good find!

REgards, Mark

[simon]

I bought a V50 Moto Guzzi recently that had been stored in a shed for 15 years. It had been driven in there in good nick and left. I did as Mark suggested and removed and replaced all the fluids and filters and cleaned the carbs to within an inch of their lives, I also got new tyres as the old ones where hard and lethal. The bike started and ran well with a couple of repairs required to the brakes with the seals all needing replacement with the Bullet this will obviously not be an issue. I don't agree with Mark regarding the tank. I've found the POR15 tank repair kit excellent on a number of machines. It gives you a cleaner, a rust neutralizer and a polyurethane one pot coat that works fine. The cleaner will expose any holes in the tank which you must deal with before the final seal either with solder or weld. If the tank is badly rusted then nothing but a replacement or major panel work will do but a few pin holes can definitely be repaired. With good provenance such as you have with this machine a total strip down isn't necessary as long as you give it a gentle time to start with you'll soon find out what needs doing with little risk of damage.

[Mark M]

The reason I say get the tank cleaned rather than sealed is because if the paint is going to be stripped to repaint, it is a good opportunity to get it dipped in rust treatment. The tank liners now available are very good at sealing imperfections but I've seen too many failed liners which are peeling due to Ethanol. Admittedly these are mostly the older type which did not anticipate the effects of Ethanol in fuel but who knows what will happen in the future? And can you be sure that it won't come off for some other reason like poor application? l think some previous use of tank sealers has been unnecessary so I'd rather use the if it ain't broke don't fix approach! In any case a few rust flakes are easier to remove from the carb than part-dissolved tank liner. Incidentally, the original tank on the Bighead is unique to that model due to it's shape underneath, be REALLY careful with it and who you trust it to as they are very hard to find!

REgards, Mark

[Bandit12]

Many thanks to you both for your advice. The chrome and paint on the outside of the tank and rear mudguard are chipped and peeling a little so I've contacted a couple of professionals for a quote on a clean and inspection of the tank followed by rechrome and repaint. I'll also get the side panels colour matched as they are currently in black and I would like the bike in red.
I will follow your advice re the engine, a new loom and some switchgear are also needed so this will be a steady restoration over the next few months. thank you also for the tips on the 12 volt conversion. This is not my main bike but plan on using it for fun and not commuting so I dont plan on lots of winter night time riding. I'll keep it 6volt for the time being, ride it and then decide but I do like the idea of LED lights.

Really appreciate the help guys and no doubt I will post again-chuckle

Bandit

[Mark M]

Look forward to seeing some pictures, before and after perhaps?

REgards, Mark

[Mark M]

For information on the LED bulbs go to these guys: http://www.dynamoregulatorconversions.com Quality is excellent, all their own stuff not just the cheap LED found in most places.

REgards, Mark

[Adrian]

For info our hosts' small chrome panel tank fits the Big Head models, you could have one of these sprayed up and get the original restored at leisure for use on high days and holidays. A.