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[Headling]

Hi Guys, I'm nearing my 1965 250 gt continental restoration and wondered what oil to put in it and how to check the levels and perform an oil change??

I have bought a Hitchcocks manual but it says the service info is in another document, if anyone has a link that would be great

[Bullet Whisperer]

Hi Headling. A good 20/50 mineral oil will be fine. Be aware that the primary drive and clutch share oil with the engine, so don't put oil of a different type in for the clutch, as it will end up going round the engine as well. Usually, about 1/4 pint in the primary case will be enough to get going, it will self level via the engine once running. There is a dipstick for the main engine oil tank level, it is integral with the filler cap to the rear right of the cylinder barrel. The gearbox oil is totally separate, but I would still put 20/50 in there as well, the filler is the small brass plug, just behind and inboard of the main filler ap for the engine. The gearbox oil level 'plug' is actually the long screw in the centre of the right hand engine outer cover.
Regards, Paul.

[Mark M]

The book you want is also sold by our Hosts, it is code INS 8. If you are running a 5 speed box I would use EP90 in the gearbox, I do on all my Enfields as a matter of course but I think the 5 speed box really needs the extra help. It certainly hasn't done any harm on mine. I don't usually disagree with Bullet Whisperer though!

REgards, Mark

[Headling]

Many thanks for the quick reply's, really appreciate it and I'll order up the extra manual

[jefrs]

Oils have moved on, a lot, since the Conti was built. You might do well with a premium full synth JASO API MA bike oil keeping as close to 20W-50 as possible. The important(!) "JASO MA" is for wet clutches. Yes there is a full synth 20W-50 https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pv ... e-2016.pdf

Wet clutches need a water-less lubricant because their friction plates use a water-based cement (because they run in "solvent"), hence "JASO MA"



Synthetic oils are mineral oils, just better refined with improved additives. I've had well over 300,000 miles out of a Volvo 245 that ran its life on full synth, the engine ran as sweet as a nut even after the lorry wrote it off whilst it was parked. Synth oils seem to resist getting their hydrocarbon chains chopped up by the engine as quickly as ordinary straight mineral oils do, thus they do their job of lubricating better for longer.

[Beezabryan]

What is the difference between a 1965 250 GT Continental and a Volvo 245 of unspecified vintage?
How do they compare?

[Reg]

As far as I can see the difference is 5.( Tongue in cheek.)

[jefrs]

Beezabryan, the similarity is they both have infernal combustion engines. I got the 1978 Volvo in the early 80s and ran it for over 20 years. Originally it had ESSO synth, that evolved, same company, into Mobil 1. The Ovlov was intended to run on straight mineral oil but it lasted and lasted and ran so well on full synth compared to other vehicles I've had and used. Compared to Castrol GTX, a decent oil (then), no contest. I'm completely sold on the stuff and firmly believe in putting the best possible product into a cherished vehicle.



There are a couple of simple tests one can do on the oil - If it is black then the detergents have been used up, discard. If you rub it between your fingers and it feels thin and watery then the oil has literally been chewed up and it's no longer a good lubricant, discard.

Putting oil into an engine is a bit like putting a vegetable into the food blender, the long-chain hydrocarbon molecules of the oil get cut and re-cut until they no longer resemble the original product and they're too short to do their job. The service interval should be reasonable for the life of the oil but oil is relatively cheap, and it's purpose is to prevent the engine chewing itself to pieces after all.

[Beezabryan]

Never mind all the "I did this " and "I did that" you have failed to tell me how comparing a Volvo car engine with a small motorcycle engine is comparing like with like.

[Bullet Whisperer]

ANY oil which has turned black has either - 1 - been in the engine for too long, or - 2 - the engine is worn or has damaged gasket[s] and has excessive blowby, letting excessive amounts of carbon find their way into the oil, whatever make or grade that oil may be. Bullet engines with breathing issues can be particularly filthy in this respect.