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By Tim Hurst
#6524
Hi all. Bought my son a 2001 bullet and it appears the clutch is dragging a bit at traffic lights with the bike in gear and the lever in. Any quick fixes please?
Cheers
By jefrs
#60565
There should be /approx/ 3mm slack on the cable with the lever let out so the clutch is firmly engaged when it should be, check with full steering lock to left and right. It must have a little slack to both sides. The clutch must not slip when driving.



With that adjusted just-so the clutch should not drag when the lever is pulled right in - use H's PDF Papasmurf gave the link to.



Some cables go spongy, some start life spongy, they stretch when pulled, usually the outer compressing which is wound like a spring. The clutch should be fully disengaged before the lever hits the handlebar grip - but it *must* engage fully when released.
By Gwilly
#60578
On a 2001 i would take all the slack out of the cable, as tight as you dare without causing clutch slip..

Next, teach him to knock into neutral before rolling to a stop at lights..

The clutch is crap and overheats rapidly due to limited lift, therefore use as little as possible.

There are improvements that can be made but its an uphill struggle and will never be a Honda..
By Tim NZ
#60581
Too many people fit HDuty clutch springs in a frequently forlorn and misguided attempt to 'improve' the clutch and prevent slippage.


In stead they cause dragging issues. Take a look at the gearbox end cover and pull in the clutch; does the cover deflect/bulge? (There is a cure available for it...)


The std 500 clutch can cope with 40+ Hp and not slip or drag when correctly adjusted.

By Tim NZ
#60582
Gwilly, there is a lot of misunderstanding (BS) around the RE clutch: I run Std REI clutch plates and springs in Meteor, Super Meteor, and Interceptor, albeit with a better pressure plate in the latter...


No slip no drag.
User avatar
By Leon Novello
#60585
Replacing the steel ball between the two clutch rods with a ceramic ball will stop the heat travelling along and altering the length when very hot, such as stop-go traffic where this is most noticeable at the handlebar lever.
By sofiaspin
#60586
Oh no the question from hell. Starting with pushrod when clutch cable is slack, the screw in the gearbox cover needs to be tightened until resistance, the eased off just a tad. Then tighten adjuster for cable until as Jeftrs says 3mm. ATF fluid in primary side is a good move. Also, hosts do a gearbox cover tensioning plate. I did all these and more on my 04 classic, and it always crunched when downshifting but the 08 classic is fine. It is a sensitive adjustment and needs to be tackled in a studious manner. Blipping the throttle on down changing helps as if frees the clutch plates. This is not a Hiinckley Bonnie. It is old skool needing owner engagement and consideration for how to ride the bike. Is he able to deal with that as owner empathy is the most basic requirement. If not buy him a Street Twin.
By jefrs
#60589
If the clutch is adjusted as per the PDF then any pressure from the clutch cable will be like resting your foot on the clutch in a car, you quickly wear the thrust bearing out. The equivalent is the push rods, ball bearing and clutch pressure plate



http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/pa ... 824/Clutch

http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/pa ... ot+Control (ok, the clutch lever is shown with the kick start, doh)



The clutch cable is supposed to be slightly slack at rest to take pressure off the clutch mechanism. The cable tends to go tightest on full lock. If it is tight it puts pressure on the clutch rods and hence the clutch pressure plate. At worst case scenario if the clutch cable is tight then you can get clutch slippage which will wear the clutch plates out in no time flat; the clutch only wears when it is slipping.



Clutch cable /slightly/ slack at all times in drive - *approximately* 3mm i.e. maximum slackness at probably straight ahead because the cable will tighten as it is bent at full lock. The british cables are not as spongy as the indian ones, they don't tighten up as much on full lock and you might be able to dial some slack out - but it still needs some slack.



If the clutch is dragging then it won't change gears nicely and a tendency to false-neutrals. Adjust clutch push rod as per PDF then dial in the cable.

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