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[Ginetta lad]

Nobody mentioned the rather important point that a standard box won't fit unless you spend £210 more pounds to convert the box to right side change as left change won't fit. The gear shaft goes right through the oil tank on the later bikes so it won't fit my crankcase as standard. Sadly this make the conversion cost more than the bike??? I don't suppose any of you have any of the parts second hand as a long shot? H

[mauri]

devon john



im talking about these studs, as far as i know there are imperial up an till the electra!









ginetta lad



thats because you don’t need that kit, unless you like to spend money for nothing.

the indian reseller i bought mine of did the mod for me at the time with no extra cost.

unfortunately this seller isn’t active any more.



since then i have don a couple myself, and is pretty easy.

the only parts you need to order are these, the first two can even be found pretty much any where(washer, m5 nylon nut).







all that remains to do is, get a plug made to close the rear hole, you can ever re-use the bushing and seal you removed from the gearbox to put the plug in.

get the cover bored out to take the bushing and seal you have removed from the gearbox, shorten the gear lever shaft and thats it.






i get the labor done at my local shop for €40,00 with is way cheaper than £210,00

the assembly i do myself.



don’t forget that hitchcock is like any commercial business, they make stuff for you to buy.

some of these thing are made for ease of mounting, but don’t necessarily have your best interest(wallet) in mind.

you and you alone have to decide if you go the easy way and spend the money for it.

or you can use your imagination and wit and come out richer in many ways in the end

[devon john]

the part number on the 3/8 studs are bottom stud is 550111 and the top stud is 110202,,,, thats for the sixty 5 and imperial ,, the later is metric

i just looked up the numbers and ordered the studs ,,,, didn't want to strip it down then having to wait for bits to put it back to gather

i will do the job in the next few days ,,,,,,, can wait to see what difference it makes ,

my engine is 535cc plus big valves steel rod and roller bottom end ,,balanced ,henry price R cams up rated oil pumps ,, disc brake and amal carb !!!

it goes very well

john

[mauri]

devon john



in my first post i mentioned the 550111 X2 parts


aren’t you confusing the cilinder head studs with the gearbox studs?



the 4 or 5speed gearbox has 3/8th mounting holes, the studs are therefore also 3/8th or 9,52mm.

so that your final drive/primary drive are aligned and it has an overal snug fit to the engine and frame!.



howe is your gearbox centered on 8mm studs, are there compensating bushings?.

or are the 4 mounting holes in your gearbox 8mm?

[devon john]

your illustrated part was the wrong number ,,,,,, so just ordered the right ones ,

thanks for your help it would have been a bummer to find after removing the engine and finding the studs were short !!

john

[Ginetta lad]

OK thanks that makes more sense cost wise. so is the pin pivot part the short gear change shaft to replace the long one? HC kit has the clutch centre cable and gear change arm which will be shorter than mine. I have the brake pedal of course so no point forking out for that and the new cover then. H

[Ginetta lad]

What's the 550145 mudguard bracket for? As mine isn't standard what's it do or for?

[Ginetta lad]

Well I ordered a S/H box from our host. 2k miles apparently so it should be OK. They claim it's not easy to convert the box to RH change but I'll see how I get on. I ordered the other bits and bobs but still need the clutch centre and cable. Do I have to cut down, knurl and re-use the long gear shaft then just drill the cover? H

[mauri]

ginetta lad



the pin is just what it is “ a pin”, on pre ’05 both pins are riveted pins

(if you get a ’05 and later gearbox you can loosen the top pin, which is from then on a threaded pin).

as you’ll have to drill this out to remove the gear lever shaft to shorten it, you’ll need a threaded pin to put it back.



if rivet pins have been used in one ore both position, is not a bad idea to change this also.

they tend to work loose in time!

hence why i gave the part number.






ps, the correct threaded pin nr is 550197, i click’t on the wrong part.





part 550145 is what holds the bottom of this plate to the gearbox, if you don’t have this you don’t need it.

[Ginetta lad]

Mauri where are you getting those diagrams from as they are better and more detailed than the H/C ones on here? Any chance of a download of the drawings??
I don't have the big iron mudguard fitted but I replaced it with thick lighter rubber so I have the bracket anyway. I presume the gear shaft will need the flutes or splines machining into it too once shortened? Our hosts also mention a re-jogged clutch cable angle to improve the movement too but no idea what year my box is as yet. It's from a sixty five but that's all I know? Harvey