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Service

Posted: Wed Jun 22, 2016 10:21 pm
by Reds
I want to service my 1960 350 bullet normally get jacksons in knebworth but thouhgt I would do it myself. My only concern is the oil filter as I have heard a dry start could cause damage.

I will be going by my workshop manual but if any of you could run through the procedure of oil and filter change would be greatly appreciated.

Reds

Service

Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2016 6:23 am
by papasmurf
I dare say some here will correct me, but I thought the practice is to pour 300cc of oil into where you check and adjust the tappets.

Service

Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2016 6:55 am
by Mark M
Your local REOC Branch Club night is next Wednesday at 8.00. If you come along all the Bullet owners will tell you their routine and tips.

REgards, Mark

Service

Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2016 7:39 am
by PeteF
First off, get the oil hot before draining.
Its a good idea to soak the filter in oil before installation. Lay out the bits of the filter housing as you disassemble so you get it back together correctly (careful with the spring under the cover)
There is a fair amount of oil in the timing chest, and this can be drained via the quill bolt (big one in centre of timing chest) The timing chest also needs refilling after the change but this will happen naturally. Just be aware that the level in the oil "tank" will drop as this happens. You can fill it manually if you want via the tappet inspection cover.
Don't overfill the tank; half way between the marks is fine.
Don't worry about a "dry" start. There is plenty of oil in the bearings for the engine to run happily at tickover for a few minutes while the new oil gets round. If you want to check circulation, loosen a rocker feed banjo or look in the tappet inspection cover to see oil dribbling down the pushrod tunnel.
There's a tech note here on Bullet lubrication (left hand panel of the screen "Technical Notes")

Service

Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2016 7:55 am
by vince
Hi, If your worried about a dry start here's the procedure I was shown.When all oiled and ready to go just remove the spark plug and loosen the oil quill a tweek, then push the bike in first gear till the pump pressure start to ooze oil out of the quill. Retighten nut replace plug and start. Vince

Service

Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2016 8:50 am
by PeteF
Yes, that would work Vince but really, it's a bit OTT.
The fact is, if you've just drained the oil, there is plenty in the bearing for a few minutes tickover.
I think people get paranoid about it.

Service

Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2016 9:01 am
by vince
The operative words are "if your worried about a dry start" Vince

Service

Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2016 9:31 am
by PeteF
Point taken Vince.
My point is, you shouldn't be.

Service

Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2016 10:03 am
by vince
I'm not the one asking the question! Vince

Service

Posted: Thu Jun 23, 2016 10:08 am
by PeteF
OK;
My point is, Reds shouldn't be.