Hitchcocks Forum

Hi all, going to change the fork oil in my 2008 G5 (I think, the efi with the shiny chrome tank?) and wonder what oil grade those one here have tried and how much. Handbook says 10W-30 and 265cc per leg which seems quite heavy grade. Some online guide suggest 10w and 180cc, which seems nit low but a more likely grade. Any first hand experience from our knowledgeable forum members?

When I bought my 2011 EFI Electra the forks were woefully over damped and the ride uncomfortable. I changed it to 10W and still found it a bit stiff. I changed the fork seals recently so took the opportunity to put Auto transmission fluid in. It's sort of ok but maybe a bit too soft now so might go back to the sloppiest proper oil I can get. Might depend on how porky you are ! I'm just under 12 stone. I put in 265 cc which is what the manual suggests.

Regards Clive

Clive, you can get "proper" fork oil at sae5 and sae10 among others. I put ATF in my Iron Barrel 350 and it's fine. I understand ATF is about sae7

All the correct information you will probably ever need to know about fork oil 'grades'


http://www.peterverdone.com/wiki/index. ... sion_Fluid

Well changed it today and put in 180cc (as that's what came out) of 10w Castrol fork oil.

Feels a bit smoother but even just pumping the forks in the garage felt way too under-damped so I've added 80cc (to bring it up to volume recommended in the manual) of 10/30 engine oil. Static bouncing feels a bit better but I think still too soft, will take it for a spin tomorrow before deciding whether to dump the new oil and go for 260cc of 10/30. ON the plus side it's an easy job and at least the 10w oil will have given the fork internals a good clean.

+++ Update +++

A nice 120 mile jaunt over to Isle of Wight for the day on Saturday revealed what I suspected, fork action nice and soft but way underdamped. Front end dips a lot on slightest use of front brake and a bit of a queasy, rocking motion on the bends.
Last night I drained and replaced with 260cc 0f 10/40 engine oil (all I had in the garage) and static test in the garage it feels way better, will give it a go later today.

I also took the opportunity to give the RE a general going over adjusting chain, rear brake, clutch cable, lubing levers and cables, cleaning spark plug, tweak the rear suspension pre-laod and giving it a bit of a de-gunk underneath near the chain. Made me think I should also change the oil and filter as just over 12 months since last change although only 2100 miles, I'll order a couple of oil filter packs of our hosts in readiness.

"I should also change the oil and filter as just over 12 months since last change although only 2100 miles"
Yes you should. Oil does go off and should be replaced annually regardless of mileage. Filter will probably be OK though.
If you are doing low mileages the best time to change oil is when you tuck it up for winter (presuming you do) This means the engine is sitting in clean oil through the lay-up.

Thanks Pete, yes I change oil every year usually start of Summer as the RE gets used all year round, it's really a Winter bike as I have a few more that get used in the dry weather (when's that then?). Having said that the RE usually gets a trip at least once a week, sometimes only a few miles, others a bit longer, Saturday was 120 miles around Isle of Wight - very nice.