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[pd110961]

my 2015 Classic 500 has 1300 miles on her now, and the tappets are quite noisy. I'm about to put a louder exhaust on her, but I know that's not an ideal cure!

when I had my 2006 model, last year, I did the tappets easily, with the adjusters inside the rectangular inspection hatch.

If the new model the same technique?

[Les]

The latest EFI bikes have hydraulic tappets no adjustment necessary, perhaps it is the auto decompressor making a noise

[Nobbi1977]

It might be the injector clicking. I was surprised how loud they were.

[Rattlebattle]

As has been said, the EFI motor has hydraulic tappets that are self-adjusting, using oil pressure. While in theory the valve train noise should be reduced, in practice these engines can be quite noisy. If the engine speed drops below around 700 rpm the auto decompressor will kick in, causing a sort of clacking noise.

[ric]

The most noticeable noise on my valve train as far as I can tell is definitely from the timing chest area and most likely emanates either from the pinion gears or the cam followers/tappets or both!

The export model workshop manual gives specifically mentions checking the pinion backlash at 500 miles (or 800 Kilometres).
I know mine weren't done and am wondering just how many (if any) UK bikes have actually been checked according to factory requirements during the first 'labour free, materials only' service.

[pd110961]

thanks for the info, guys. I'll just fit the new exhaust and rest assured!

[jefrs]

When it came to first service I specifically asked the mechanic if he adjusted the cams, he did not because he checked them and they were spot-on. To do the job you have to drain oil and take the side casing off.



I've noticed having the correct amount of oil can shut the motor up.

Too much oil is dead wrong and easy to do.

A considerable amount of oil remains in the engine when draining. So I drained and changed filter, half-filled and ran motor to circulate it. The then gradually added oil over a couple of sessions until it just showed in the glass. It takes very little oil, barely more than 100ml to move the level from bottom to top mark. Not quite enough or over half-full is far better than over the top mark. The pumps let you know by their sound when they are or not drawing oil properly, the engine holds a total of 2.75 litres so a drain plus 1.4 litres will get the pumps working with over 2 litres actually in there, I needed to add little more than 200ml, there's that much old oil left in the engine after draining. The sight glass is the only way to gauge the correct amount of oil, it would be better if it had an oil level plug to drain excess.