Hitchcocks Forum

Hi everyone,
I've had a search but can't find an answer.
Ive started my bike after five months being away. Before doing so I cleaned the carb and changed the needle by one notch so it would run leaner (a very sooty plug made me think it was rich - am I wrong?) after starting it revved uncontrollably. Idle screw had no effect and only way to stop it was turning off the fuel.
Before I change the needle back and try again, potentially causing some damage, am I missing something?
Cheers, Adam.

The needle position would not make it rev like that. I suggest you might have got the slide/needle assembly incorrectly assembled.
As for stopping it, there are lots quicker ways than turning off the fuel. Does it have a kill switch? An ignition switch? You could pull off the plug cap. Put it in gear and stall it against the brakes (possibly a bit dodgy if it's revving very fast)

Didn't think of the plug! I'll try that next time. I did replace throttle cable before I put it away so I think you may be on to something. Take two.....

So throttle cable too tight. Bike revs normally (phew )if I remove the metal spacer/feeder at the back of the grip. The adjuster is as loose as it can be and the link inside the grip is on the loosest setting so, unless I'm mistaken I need a lightly longer cable?

When I replaced the cable I also replaced the Magura levers for minda ones.

Looks like throttle cable is not adjusted. You should hear the click as the slide hits bottom when you release twist grip.

If you ordered a cable from our hosts, using your bike datails, then that is probably why it's wrong, because you altered its spec, ie the levers, and assuming, the twistgrip assembly. Order one for the new grip, the carb end is the same, again assuming you still have the priginal Mikarb?

I'll have another look in a few days but I'm pretty certain its adjusted to its longest.

Netthubby: it was bought as a conversion kit from our hosts which included the cables for my bike so one would assume they would fit. Happy to admit I'm wrong so will double check its set right before getting a new cable. As an aside the brake switch is a bit loose in its mount which means the brake light stays on. Ive fixed it with a bit of wire but had it been manufactured to better tolerances it would work perfectly. Frustrating. Cheers

An update just to close this off.

To fix my revving issue I have shortened the outer sheath of the cable supplied by hitchcocks by 15mm. In addition to an iridium plug it now starts and, with a bit of adjustment, idles nicely.

Hopefully, this rain disappears and I can get out for a test ride! Cannot wait! Vroom Vroom!

Adam

The bike was stored for five months and the cable has shrunk. Rust!

Pump oil down the cable, better solution is to fit a new cable. Once they go rusty they're hosed, oiling it is a get-you-home.



Second thought - bike stored for months, crud drops to bottom of tank and goes down fuel line to float bowl; many strange problems.



Moving the needle can make it run better or worse but would also affect idle speed; did you alter the throttle stop on the slide or only adjust drop on the cable adjuster (should be slack) and idle/bypass? Use a drill bit under the slide to set it to whatever gap I've forgotten it's supposed to be?