Hitchcocks Forum

Help Chaps!
I've made up a heat shield for the high level exhaust on the Trials Cub.
Trouble is, the heat conducts through the spacers and the shield gets almost as hot as the pipe given time. I've drilled holes in the plate but still it gets hot.
Anyone know of a material which will be strong enough for the job, stand the heat of the pipe, but not conduct the heat so much.
I used brass at first then realised this is probably about the worst material to use.

You could try Titanium - but be warned that it's a bitch to work with in many respects. I seem to remember that you need to use cobalt drills which can snap very easily.

Any Chance of a picture of the bike with the heat shield attached?

Hi Pete. Base on how I imagine you have made the thing, ....What about fibre washers either side of the plate where the screws hold the plate to the fixing/mounting brackets also make sure there is a good clearance where the screws pass through the plate too...no contact no heat transfer....papasmurf requested a photo which will provide a better idea of how to resolve the problem

I'll try again!!!
Hi Pete. Based on how I imagine you have made the thing, ....What about fibre washers either on the screws that attach the heat plate to the fixing/mounting brackets.........Also make sure there is a good clearance where the screws pass through the plate too...no contact no heat transfer....As per papasmurf how about a photo which will provide a better idea of how to resolve the problem


....Les

Ah gawd... seems like this forum leaves out words every so often:(

Pete if I get this right you should see a picture below, this is a bike I built up a couple of years ago, the heat shield has two L shaped brackets welded on the back of thin steel about half an inch wide and is clamped on with two normal exhaust clamps, this worked very well and stood proud of the pipe by about one inch.

Heat shield of glassfibre/Kevlar, spacers "tuffnol" or similar, nuts/bolts not touching actual heatsheild

As you can see, the shield has to be close to the pipe to clear the kickstart lever. I tend to burn waterproofs most on the front of the silencer where there is a bigger gap twixt guard and silencer.
Fitting to the pipe is by modified s/s jubilees and spacers. I've not decided how (if at all) to secure to the silencer.
Further guard may be fitted in front.

Tuffnol? would that stand the temperature? At least it's easy to work.

Looking at this angle the guard doesn't look like it would do the job but in reality it's wide enough.