Page 1 of 4

Starting technique

Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 10:28 am
by Rattlebattle
Hello All

I've finally taken delivery of my new Classic 500 Limited Edition Despatch. Having lurked on this site for a while before taking the plunge I get the impression that one needs to take care to protect the starter sprag clutch, inasmuch as this is possible. (Just like my Triumph Sprint then....) I had hoped, therefore, to start the engine using the kickstart. However, on my model there is a small guard pop-riveted onto the cover on the silencer. Unfortunately the kickstart pedal clonks this (technical expression) making it very difficult to kick start. In fact the the guard was already loose when I inspected it. I have taken the bike back to the dealer, who is fortunately within walking (pushing?) distance from my home. I had to collect a load of spares that came with the bike anyway. The dealer immediately offered to sort it by drilling out the rubbishy alloy rivets and replacing them with stainless nuts and bolts, which is what I would have done. The clearance is really minimal though, so he also suggested moving the kickstart out by 1mm. We agreed that this fettling work can wait until the first service.

In the meantime I am obliged to use the electric starter. This works well enough from cold, pulling the clutch lever and using the "choke" (I know how it works)and not touching the throttle. When warm, however, the engine seems to need a bit of throttle to start. Is this normal, or should it start with a closed throttle when warm? Or are they all different?

Re kick starting, is there a recommended procedure for this? There is no mention in the owners handbook, which was printed in 2008 and relates to the early Classic sans kickstart. I should perhaps mention that I can start big singles, having in the past owned a BSA B33, a DB32 Goldie, Norton 19S and Moto Guzzi Nuovo Falcone and started and ridden other singles such as a Velo Viper. All of these of course had a manual valve lifter. Any advice much appreciated.

The other question I have is, what exactly is the twin spark engine? Mine only has a single spark plug (which I've already changed for an Iridium one). Does RE actually manufacture a twin spark plug head, or is it only a mod that can be done, like on airhead Beemers? Just curious. Ta.

Alan

Sic se res habet: Fractum est.

Starting technique

Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 11:42 am
by Scalyback

Every single bullet is unique!



Ok, so the EFI's are more consistent than the older classic carb engined ones, but giving advice can be hard, as they are all a little different. This individuality is one reason that they mostly get loved and named.





My advice is, If your technique starts the bike consistently when warm, then you are doing it right. Just climb aboard, give it a thankful pat on the headlamp shell or tank and off you go!



I am not certain if the sprag on the EFI's is as Clumsy un-Reliable And Poor (CRAP) as on the older bullets, but I probably used the electric start 4-6 times in a year.

If you are within 'pushing' distance of the dealer, then sod's law dictates that you and the bike should have a long trouble free relationship.

Starting technique

Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 1:49 pm
by Chris [Stockport]
On my older, year 2007 Bullet, I need a bit of throttle when starting from hot. Also, it definitely needs a bit of throttle when using the "choke". It doesn't need throttle when starting on a warm day, without choke.

I know it's not the same engine as yours, but agree that in any case they're all different. It is part of the experience getting the feel of your own bike. Enjoy it! Chris

Starting technique

Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 3:29 pm
by Rattlebattle
Thanks for the replies. Yes, I thought they'd all be a bit different. I went for a ride today and found that it needed a bit of throttle from cold too, even with the "choke". (It is a bit nippier here today though). I must say I came back with a big grin on my face; I got the thumbs up too from a rider of some modern Jap bike as he overtook. I'd forgotten how therapeutic a big single can be. By comparison my old pre-unit Triumph seems quite frenetic. I'll be glad when I've run it in though and when I can use the kickstart. The other surprising thing is how mechanically quiet the engine is, even without wearing earplugs. Down to the hydraulic tappets I guess. It's way quieter than my Tiger 100, though they are notoriously rattly with the all alloy engine. Also, with the modern tyres the RE goes round corners a treat though nothing has grounded yet. I'm very impressed with the handling and roadholding. What a great antidote to the warp factor speed I feel inclined to ride my modern Hinkley Triumph to get much pleasure from it....

Anyway, thanks once again for the replies.

Alan

Starting technique

Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 4:12 pm
by papasmurf
Has anyone ever fitted an inertia starter to an Enfield:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAqGfHlY0fU


Starting technique

Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 4:33 pm
by Lardmarc
That Swordfish is quicker to start than my Armstrong.

Starting technique

Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2015 10:54 am
by Thack
For goodness' sake, stop worrying about the starter sprag!



I'm on my third electric start Bullet, and I've never had a single problem with a starter sprag. Not only that, but the current model has a much improved and more robust sprag.



It's simple: use the electric starter. If it should ever break, THEN kickstart it. My expectation is that it won't break.

Starting technique

Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2015 11:28 am
by ric
Some of those guards were fitted back to front causing kickstart clearance problems. Hopefully it's now been fitted correctly.

Starting technique

Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2015 2:13 pm
by Deanobats
Funnily enough, I took delivery of my new B5 Bullet yesterday. Used the electric start to get it running from the dealers home, then when home, thought 'I'll have a go at kickstarting it!', when on first kick, *clang*, small metal guard is on the floor as the kick-starter has clonked it. I should have read your post first. It's just pop-riveted on.

On a separate note, keep checking all nuts and bolts, many have vibrated loose just on the 20 miles back from the dealers.

Starting technique

Posted: Sat Sep 05, 2015 2:45 pm
by papasmurf
Deanobats, with an Enfield Nyloc Nuts, Locktight, and R-clips are your friends.