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Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 7:12 pm
by dan1612
Now I am onto the hex bolts at the top of the forks and these too don't want to budge - anyone had similar? I'm leaving over night with some penetrating spray and will give another go tomorrow but I suppose heat will be the answer??? For my sanity though, I can't find anything in the manuals to disagree, the thread is a standard anti-clockwise to undo? Correct?

thanks once again

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Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 7:59 pm
by PeteF
Are you talking about the 1/2 inch hex socket in the top of the fork leg that screws into the top yolk? They are rht but as you are working from the "bottom" of the thread you need to unscrew them clockwise. Just needs thinking about - you wouldn't be the first to get this wrong.

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Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 8:16 pm
by dan1612
yep just had the light bulb moment and realised the same. However does this unscrew a bolt holding the upper fork into the cassette or the entire fork?

thanks

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Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 9:03 pm
by PeteF
You are unscrewing the fork tube from the top yolk. The top of the tube is threaded and the hex socket is formed in the tube itself.

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Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 9:09 pm
by PeteF
To clarify, the top yolk is the caskette on these machines.

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Posted: Mon Aug 10, 2015 9:11 pm
by Ian Martin
If you can't find a hex key big enough in your everyday toolkit the front footrests stud fits the top of the fork stanchion. I've used this method to remove mine.
Ian

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Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 5:37 am
by Adrian
Shouldn't that be top yoke? The yolk is what I always manage to overcook when doing soft-boiled eggs! A.

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Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 6:25 am
by PeteF
You're right of course Adrian, blame the red wine 😊

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Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 9:38 am
by dan1612
Thanks all, will give it a go tonight - it's the last part of the dismantling. Rebuild is next.....

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Posted: Tue Aug 11, 2015 10:22 am
by wilf
I undid mine using a central heating rad Allen key.