Hitchcocks Forum

I got a -68 Bullet 350, that got some kind of circut at the contact breaker points.
Some days ago my RE was running fine, so I decided to go for a ride, got all dressed up, but when I tried to kickstart my bike, it was completely dead.
The ammeter dosent flick, and there is no clicking sound when I turn on the ignition.

And everything else seems to be in order, got a fully charged battery, also got power on the contact breaker, coil, also on the HT lead and on the spark plug itself.
So I changed contact breaker points, but I still got no spark, also tried different sparkplugs.
A friend of mine meant that I have a circut at the contact breaker points.

Have any of you any idea how I can find out where the circut is, what I should look for?
Something must have happen between my bike was running, and the time where I should go for a ride, that was just half and hour or so.
There is no point of replace the contact breaker with new ones, if the new ones also circut.


I hope someone can help me with this, and that you excuse my bad English, I live in Norway.


Regards from Norway, to all RE owners.

A short-circuit is possible due to faulty insulation on the ignition wiring, or a wire or terminal could have broken somewhere in the system. Check the wiring from the ignition switch to the coil, then from the coil to the contact breaker. A failed condenser on the points plate is possible, also a defective ignition coil. Try running a temporary power lead from the battery straight to the coil. If that works, then your problem is between the coil and ignition switch or the ignition switch and the ammeter. If not, it's the coil or contact breaker assembly or the wiring in between. A.

Good tech note here about Bullet ignition.

Thanks for your advice

Have any of you got the direction of how the contact breaker are mounted together?
First the locknut, then the small washer, then the lead to the coil, then the spring to the contact breaker, then the contact to the condensor?
Does that sound right?






Regards from Norway.

Nearly right. The two wires are joined together on top of the spring..

No part of the spring or two wires must touch the base plate or pillar thread..

Must be insulated by the nylon spacers top and bottom..

Sorry i've just remembered some have the condenser wire at the bottom under the spring, I guess it doesn't make much difference and is more dependant on the length of the wire to fit without being too tight..

Hi, bmh67. I had a similar problem with my 1996 535cc Classic. After much kicking (of tyres) I eventually found if I removed the (metal) points cover, it started and ran fine and I then found a minute wear hole in the insulation of the wire leading from coil to points – exactly as Adrian suggested
Cheers, ChrisD

Hi and thanks for all the advice.
I have replaced the contact breaker point plate, with new contact breaker and condenser.
Also I have tried a new coil, but I still cant get any spark.

I have tried to adjust the contact breaker points, also found the TDC, but when I turn on the ignition, there is no snap sound from the contact breaker points.
The battery is fully charged, and I have power on the wire to the contact breaker.

And now I really dont have a clue what I should be looking for, anyone have any idea?






Regards from Norway.

BMH

Hi guys----------- sounds to me as if the moving points, aren't !!---ie}--- The two white plastic inner halves should NOT be clamping down on the moving blade but be free enough to allow some movement............You older "sweats" will remember the early Lucas one-piece points body made out of a red-ish fibre...When it got hot it expanded and gave erratic movememnt OR non at all......A clean out with a small drill usually did the trick...........BMH67, whereabouts are you in the country ?? Maybe one of us could call in and help you ??

Alan R from the thread starter:- Regards from Norway, to all RE owners.