Hitchcocks Forum

Hi this is my first post. I'm the proud owner of a very well looked after electra. (bought for a steal from my father bless him)
Anyway I'm buying as as a bobber project and I've noticed if I want slightly chunkier tyres I need smaller rims.

If anyone could advise on the best way forward to save me going in circles on the internet I'd be so grateful.

From what I gather I need 18" (can you go smaller?) to house a slightly larger tyre.

If anybody has done a similar project any information at all would be so helpful.

I'm not looking to do anything crazy just a simple build in to a minimal solo seat bobber that looks cool. I like the motovida examples and the OEM builds for example.


Many thanks and I look forward to my new venture in to the world of the Royal Enfield!


Alex

Hi Alex, sorry I can't remember the exact sizes off hand, but 'Asbo' No8 is a bobber I built a couple of years ago. It had big, fat 18" Dunlop K180 tyres front and rear, as can be seen in this video ...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xnY6TcgRha0

Alex, all depends on how far you want to go, a mate just sold one he bought a few years ago that was bobbed in India and from memory it a 16 inch rim with probably a 4 inch tyre. They had made a new swing arm out of flat bar so that it could clear the tyre

Ha! I saw that of yours earlier in another video (correct me if I am wrong)

So by dropping down just to 18" I can fit those on a standard chassis no problem?

The other thing is the wiring. I want to lose as much as possible. Is it straight forward to rip everything off and leave f and r lights and a small single clock? Also it's an electra and wandered if I can lose the electric start?

Thanks for replies guys.

Now here is a change, you want to loose the elictric, usually it is the other way around, most people loose the electric start without wanting to

Owl, don't mind Norm he's are resident HOOT..

Here's another clever chap, Count Johnny who's been down the bobber route over the last year

Minimalist wiring and engineering solutions. Read his threads here..


http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/se ... unt+johnny

Ok if you really want to loose the electric start you use a Thunderbird inner primary. I have seen inner primaries that have the left shift hole but I'm not sure what those models are called. The Thunderbird one I used didn't.

Alex, with the bike in such good condition, why don't you try it as it is for a while BEFORE you start chopping things about? That way you'll have a much better idea of whether you really want to keep it. I'm thinking of the other poster who admitted that, having put his Bullet through the conversion, decided he couldn't get on with it because of the right-foot gear change!



As you say you're not looking to do anything crazy, keep all the original bits safe, so that when you DO sell the bike you can put it back to standard, or at least the new owner will have the option to do so. This may help with the resale value.



Our hosts have a number of items which may be of interest (no, I'm not thinking matt black silencers). They have a wider swinging arm to take 4.00" section rear tyres, blanking plugs for the removal of electric starters (though I agree with Norm, the K/S only version of the Electra inner case looks a whole lot better) and alternative battery trays if the Electra side panels and airbox are heading for the box in the loft. Using universal mudguards modified to your spec means the originals can be preserved.



Unfortunately people are jumping on the bobber bandwagon and seem to have harmless old Royal Enfields firmly in their sights, but if you can actually produce a genuinely attractive, lean custom bike avoiding the usual bobber clichés (step AWAY from the exhaust-wrap...) we would like to see the result. Meanwhile have a look at this:



http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_Kv_eXIgSkQA/T ... man_05.jpg



It's more street scrambler than bobber, but it has got an a very good lean quality while still respecting the classic heritage. Wish I could make 'em that neat.



A.

Hi Alex



I've never taken a measuring stick to OEM's Fox, when I've seen it, but - what with it retaining a swinging arm - it never looked like that much had been done to it. You know, throw a load of stuff away; hack a foot, or so, off the rear mudguard; lob on a Brooks saddle; knock up a little leather satchel to hold your battery; and Robert's your Aunt.



Slo Poke runs battery-less but, being on a Q plate - and therefore relieved of a requirement for fripperies like indicators, a constant tone horn, etc - it's much easier to keep everything running.


I use Joe Lucas's uprated stator, a SPARX rotor, a Boyer Powerbox, points and condenser, 35 Watt H4 headlamp; an LED running/brake light and about a dozen wires. Oh, by the way, don't trouble yourself with trying to fit the Boyer ignition unit on a battery-less bike. Neither you, nor your ankle, will like it. Oh, and Boyer's Powerbox is a big old ugly thing, so you might like to think about finding a place to hide it, or use the Pazon rectifier/battery eliminator that I've fitting as a part of my winter/spring rebuild.



As for wheels, I personally like to keep things vintage and skinny, but I believe you can fit an 18" WM3 rim without too much trouble, if fatter is your thing.



Iain

To (hopefully) give you some encouragement, here are some shots of Slo Poke on the surgeon's table for his latest, last nut and bolt, makeover.



612 engine - built for me from my old engine and our host's kit - by The Bullet Whisperer:





A cheesecake shot of the carb in place:







And the 'new' half width rear hub (along with one off adjusters, and stuff) finally in the right place (I hope):



Nine days to go - but with a week off work to make it happen!