Hitchcocks Forum

Hi,
I am having trouble removing both fork springs, I have removed the main tube valve port the spring strut is out but the springs will not pull down I have gripped the end of the coils with mole grips and even tried drifting them out down through the top with filler plug out. Are they attached to the large top allen headed bolt? I have followed our hosts instructions that came with the softer springs up to the point were it says "the springs should now fall out" maybe it needs a more aggresive approach!
Any help appreciated.

Regards Roy

If this is a Classic? Then they're not fastened at the top and should come out with a firm pull. Have you tried twisting them?
Incidentally, if you are expecting a softer ride with the soft springs you may need to use a thinner oil. The springing be softer but the damping is too firm with standard oil. I find ATF is about right.

Try unscrewing them in the direction of the helix of the spring

Thanks for the advise Gents.
Yes it is a 2008 k/s 500. I wound up the spring with screwdriver through molegrip jaws in the direction of reducing helix diameter and they both went with a loud twang and dropped out.
Now I have to get sufficient thread protruding on the spring stud to start the nut. I am waiting for the boss to come back with our car to go and get a 1metre length of bar, to give it some light percussion from the top.
It's a wet afternoon in Sussex so it's a good way of spending the day.
ATF it will be then PeteF.

Thanks again guys.

Roy

To get the spring stud through, first make sure it's lined up properly then tap the bottom of the slider with a soft mallet. As soon as you get a few threads visible you can pull them through with the nuts. (new or annealed washers recommended)
The studs will want to revolve when you tighten the nuts so either:
Tap the spanner with a mallet to "surprise" them and/or;
Put the wheel back in and compress the suspension with a ratchet strap to get enough friction.

Hi Pete,
I have each leg jacked up with ratchet straps, the struts are flush but will not go through anymore, even with persuasion on the bottom of the leg with platic mallet. I cannot engage the first thread. How does it sound to you if I put a 1/2 bar down through the spring and lightly tap the top of the valve block to persuade the strut through the alloy leg. That is the plan for tomorrow morning.

Roy

Worth a try Triton but don't go mad and strip the threads off on the way through.

Rat tail file and open the hole a fraction, can't expect the Indians to get everything right can you

Hi.
It worked fine a light tap and both struts protruded through enough to start the threads. Judging by the marks on top of the strut metering valve that's the way they did it originally in Chennai.
Norm I didn't want to go down the rat tail file route as it requires an interference fit to stop the strut from turning when bottom nut is tightened, thanks for reply.
Today I also fitted our hosts clutch outer case stiffening mod, it has reduced it considerably not totally, is this that normal?
Cheers
Roy

with the gearbox cover strengthener mod, some minute flex of the cover remains.



but the bulk of the flex is removed.