Hitchcocks Forum

Hi again,

In another thread someone made a comment that I should replace the ball bearing on the clutch rod for a ceramic one as this transfers heat less then a metal one.
I was looking in the partslist (and on my bike) and the '55 does not have a ball bearing between it's clutch rod and its clutch rod pad.
My question is should I replace the clutch rod or clutch rod pad with an indian so I can install a bearing, cut down the clutch rod or clutch rod pad to install a bearing or just leave it as is?

Whatever works for you stef, you will find out soon enough if the clutch works or not, and then you can try all the different fix ideas

If your clutch is satisfactory then leave well alone. Leon's recommendation was for someone who had a problem..

Bryan's right but then we RE owners are famous for fixing things till they break

I did the 'chop the rod in three and add ball bearings' mod on my '59 Connie and transformed the action. I personally think the ceramic argument is weak as there's so little area in contact between ball & rod end. I didn't do the ceramic ball thing for that reason and all works fine. If you do it, don't forget to measure the length of the rod(s) and subtract the diameter of the ball(s) from the total length by shortening the rod(s) to ensure it all fits - oh and don't forget to polish & harden the cut ends of the rods! Stephen

I don't think Stef has ever had this gearbox together, the cases are away being welded up at the moment from memory

The ceramic ball is for between rods which are in two pieces, to cut the heat expanding and so lengthening the rods causing excess free play at the handlebar lever. This is only noticable in heavy stop-start traffic conditions where the extra slack in the cable becomes noticable (like 32C/40C conditions in Australia). If your bike has a single rod and the clutch works normally, leave it alone.

Leon, if the pushrod grew longer due to heat, this would reduce free-play in the system, wouldn't it? Increasing free play in stop-start traffic is because the clutch plates overheat and swell, having the same effect as shortening the pushrod and hence creating more free play at the lever. Or am I missing something?

Allan you are correct, I believe it is expansion as you said in the plates along with expansion of the gearbox housing which is bolted to the rear of the motor, doesn't take much and it all goes to pot. What I don't understand is why when you fit a Newby clutch these problems don't exist, expansion rates would be the same and amount of lift hasn't changed

Cork cork cork cork cork. Despite my many other travails my clutch with the cork plates is still perfect. No overheating no change whatsoever between stone cold and piping hot. I can select neutral at anytime even when I've been sitting at the lights with the bike in gear and the clutch pulled. It is a 100% effective cure. That clutch basket was never designed with modern friction materials in mind I look forward to the day when someone gambles the 15 quid and feels the difference for themselves.