Forum

[Martin]

Hope this query isn't further evidence of one's
encroaching senility, but on installing a previously
un-ulitilized '49/50 rear wheel to a stock Redditch
s/arm frame, found the brake pivot stud's length
insufficent to protrude through the frames's slots
when the axle's knurled spacer is screwed on the
end. Since said spacer's internal thres only allows
1/2" anyway. the squared end doesn't line up with
frames slot, the brake pivot needs 1/2 or 3/4" more
thread for the nut to be fitted. Axle is correctly
installed , bearings pounded in enough, and wheel
slides in frames s/arm 7 5/8" OK. Part's book list
the same components right through to '56, so how
dumb can you get. Thanxs,lads

[Norm]

Gordon silly question how do the sprockets line up, I can't recall having a problem with the backing plate stud

[Mark M]

I simply don't understand what you're on about! Brake pivot stud??? Do you mean the brake plate torque stud? Or the brake operating cam lever stud? My own experience of rear wheel brake plates on these single sided hub pre 56 models is that there are actually several different brake plates with different spacings on the shouldered part of the brake torque stud. There are a number of different rear spindle spacers to match up with this. If you measure the shouldered part of the stud, that's the thickness of spacer you need. But that might not be your problem....!
REgards, Mark

[Martin]

Brake plate torque stud, and that is the problem,
it is too short. However, you've answered my question
if there are numerous types of brake plates and spacer
thicknesses, although the part books give the same
number all along. Meanwhile, Norm, sprocket alignment
makes sense, and will check that when the motor is
back in for the fourth time. Thank you

[Mark M]

Gordon, I looked at the Parts Books for several of these models and I can now see what you mean, the stud is (unhelpfully!) listed as the brake shoe pivot although it's extended portion is actually the locking device for the whole brake assembly. These studs are listed as different components for the 350 (6") brake and the 500 (7") but I've seen other different ones as well. It might be worth looking at this possibility too? Which are you using, 6" or 7" brake? REgards, Mark

[Norm]

Must admit I cheat a lot with this sort of problem, I have a friend who is happy to make any little bits and pieces I need turned up so once I get things all aligned I get him to make me the stud, pivot,bolt, move the bearings or whatever it is that has to be done. Last week he sleved a pair of 500 barrels for me

[Martin]

Mark, since my mongrel Redditch S/arm is the only one I
know in this cosmopolian city out here, I have to rely
solely on the poorly drawn genre Parts Books pixs, or
manually that often doen't even address an issue. Nor is there
any club machines to compare the obviuos although there
are Interceptors no doubt squirreled away out in boon docks.
Hence the naive questions. Like Norm, do adapt parts with the
help of friends. Meanwhile though, will peruse all of Mr H's online
parts books for that illusive brake pivot extension some models
apparently have. Where the collective expertise on here is
invaluable is for the motor problems 'cause without that
running properly, the 'bike is a potential boat anchor. so will
continue tinkering regardless! Thank you.

[Martin]

'Manually' should hsve read 'manuals'. Brake drum is '49/'56
7" halfhub without the cushdrive inside. Is the cushless hub
the usual anyway?

[Mark M]

No cush drive? Something not right there. Gordon, have a look at the illustrated Parts Books Online section here and see if you can see anything that resembles yours. A 500T should definitely have a rear wheel cush drive, REgards, Mark

[Martin]

Mark, I nade a error. turns out the hub is 6",
and it does have the stock cush drive whose
rubbers I replaced long ago. Currently refurbishing
my BSA 441's rear wheel, hence the mistake. Perusal
of Mr H's parts books showed the same pivot bolt
#33893 with 7/16" nuts for all the 500 S/arm frames
#41374 with 1/2" nuts for the 700s, whilst the econo.
Clipper uses a 'long' pivot bolt 38916 with 7/16" nuts,
Will get these with the next order if the 7/16" X 26 stub
I will spot weld on the end of the existing pivot bolt
doesn't work out. Thank you.