Hitchcocks Forum

Hi Folks, making good progress with my '59 Connie, did a VMCC run on her recently and all was well apart from a REALLY STIFF CLUTCH ACTION! She has a pushrod clutch and I'd already fitted 3 strong and 3 weak springs and a new cable, routed sensibly. The basket and plates are reasonably ok and it has the wider outboard spring plate which puts the springs in the right place for the friction areas. The pushrod assembly consists of a long rod with a hemispherical indentation one end plus the plain pressure pad (no ball fitted). The little ball inside the adjuster is free to rotate. I've read the tech note about the pushrod etc and plan to do the mod involving cutting the pushrod and adding balls, and have a couple of questions before I fire up the angle grinder: 1. Which end of the pushrod should the hemispherical indentation be (mine was fitted against the pressure pad where it didn't seem to do anything useful)? 2. The pushrod is a bit gnarled & worn and has waisted areas on the outer diameter, but it's fairly straight - is it ok or should I replace? 3. How many sections should I cut it into? 4. Is Mine Host's pushrod pressure pad with built in bearing worth trying? 5. Springs: 3+3 or 6 weak? Thanks in advance for any guidance. Stephen

Get a new pushrod, the waisting is a sign it has been bowing under pressure and contacting the inner face of the mainshaft bore. Cut it in to 3 pieces and add suitable ball or roller bearings between the sections. Harden the cut ends and subtract the ball diameters from the new pushrod overall length. The indentation is a sign the pushrod has not been hardened or the hardening has gone through, it has no significance otherwise. Try our Host's pressure pad, I think it does help. Finally, you can use the 5 plate Bullet clutch kit (in Accessory Catalogue) in this clutch and it will also help. REgards, Mark

If you are going to fit a ball bearing between the rods, I would recommend sicicon nitride, ceramic , They don`t conduct heat like steel ones, lenghtening the rod, so the play at the clutch lever will will not alter on hot days.

Thanks Mark & Leon. I'll proceed accordingly. Any thoughts on clutch springs? I'm temped to try 6 light instead of 3+3 as before unless you advise differently...?
Stephen

I had no end of problems with my super meteor clutch. Fitted a bob newby belt drive. And hey presto i have a nice light clutch that never drags!!!!! Definatly the answer but they are pricey.

Go for the 6 light springs, you have nothing to lose. Cutting the pushrod should help lighten the action and more "lifting" force will arrive at the clutch end hopefully! You can always fall back on the heavy springs if it doesn't work. REgards, Mark

Ed you are right the Newby clutch is the best thing since sliced bread, they are a fit and forget clutch,they just go to prove that the Enfield clutches from new were junk and built to a price. A good clutch on an Enfield IS possible

Too right norm. I tried everything to get my enfield clutch working right. I must have spent about the value of a newby clutch on it before i gave it up as a bad job. Have now donated it to neils interceptor mk1 as his bike was fine when cool but in traffic it may as well of not had a clutch. I shall put a new one on mine when i come to rebuild it in the new year. Ed

Hi Barnes: As I stated above, the solution is the Silicon Nitrate -ceramic ball bearing. Cost about $5 A for a 1/4" ball. Problem solved.

So Leon where can I get these for $5 all the ones I can find for that sort of money have about $20 postage on them