Hitchcocks Forum

> has anybody had any experience installing one of these units i recently did a valve job on the old girl and cleaned up everything while in there set every thing up to pete snidal's specs and also installed the new bb electronic points/ignition.... resulting compression is 20000% stronger (the previous compression was like back peddling on a push bike) pistons moving free with decompressor ,stopping at TDC ...etc...the bike now kicks back hard and backfires when starting ...any ideas ...thanks duckie...... ps..hitchcocks you guys rock!!!

Hi. You don't say whether it's the Mk4 or the digital system, but either way to have the rotor set too far advanced. The older Mk3 analog sets the ignition far too advanced if the supply voltage drops below 11V. Mk 4 is improved somewhat on this. Recheck the rotor position making sure you have the correct crankshaft (piston) position. You can turn the magnetic sensor backplate in the same direction as rotation to retard the ignition as if you had the old points system.. Remember moving the backplate one degree is two degrees of crank rotation. Also try kickstarting with NO throttle applied.

There are detailed instructions on the Boyer website, find true TDC (doesn't matter what stroke as it sparks each crank rotation) and mark the rotor/stator. Make another mark the required degrees difference and adjust the plate with a strobe. Simples! I found this picture which may help http://flic.kr/p/9rwDZB (cut & paste)

its the mk4 ,i am reading 10.5 on the battery so im off to get a new battery ....thanks for your prompt response ..the fliker photo helps too , in the instalation instructions(bb)they mention a fuse im presuming its the main fuse?...thanks duckie

When the BB system is correctly set, 2 things are essential to start easily & avoid kick-backs:
1) the battery must have sufficient voltage!
2) the throttle needs to be almost completely closed!

The BB system works brilliantly, however it is VERY intolerant of low battery voltage.

You can roughly set it up statically, but it doesn't matter how careful or accurate you are here YOU MUST check it afterwards using a timing light....yes really.

Yes Chris, that's why I said it.

Just stay with points/coil then you will get no problems. Better perfomance? I's a joke.

Sorted the kick back with a new battery then the damthang Just fired with no kick I then checked the ground terminals thought the bike and all the sh$&!y connections everywhere found the rectifier (brown from) ignition loose remade that installed new ht lead and 5k cap (from the local Harley shop NGK) then the wifiee wanted to go shopping and now I'm sitting here dreading the first kick ... Deep breaths ... Deep effin breaths....

Hello again duckie. All the analog Boyer ignitions will produce a spark when they get switched off and on so make sure all your connections to it are solid and of good contact. You ccould always move the face plate that holds the sensor coils in the direction of the rotor rotation about 5 degrees just to make sure the ignition is retarded. You might have the timing set miles too far advanced by error so check the static timing with a timing disc or dial gauge on the piston top. Don't forget to attempt the start with no throttle applied. This will reduce any kickback to a minimum. Just catch the firing with a tiny bit of throttle. I always use this method with any of my bikes and it always works. Ultimately you should set the timing by ear by using the "pinking" method this will ensure you have the ignition optimised for your engine and fuel.