Hitchcocks Forum

Hi all

I have (fairly) recently replaced the throttle cable on my 2006 500 Classic, and (as is the way) never got around to fettling it properly. One reason for this was that, when I opened the throttle and then closed it when attempting to get the action right, the slotted ferrule at the handlebar end promptly fell off and got lost. I had to bodge a replacement from a handy bit of brass tube. Not ideal. This weekend I thought I'd take the tank off, route it properly, ensure all sliding surfaces had oil on them, adjust the play, etc. Armed with a kit of bits from our hosts (adjuster, etc.) I set about it. It all (almost) worked. Throttle action was great, play was adjustable again. As a final check I rolled open the throttle to its fullest extent, closed it and....the ferrule popped off at the handlebar end again. After much headscratching and futile adjusting I was forced to the conclusion that (a) the ferrule was very loose in the handlebar socket and (b) the cable outer was very loose in the ferrule. When closing the throttle, therefore, there was enough friction in the (oiled) cable inner just to push the outer away from the ferrule. I have sorted this temporarily with some careful shimming on both the cable outer and ferrule, but I'm pretty sure that the original cable did not do this. Have I missed something? I can't see any other parts I might need from our hosts' list. Throttle play is adjusted correctly. Throttle cables not being exactly complex, I am now scratching my head as to what to do next. Does anyone have any ideas?

Cheers

TimG

As you say, the slotted ferrule is a sloppy fit in both the twistgrip and cable outer. It's supposed to be held in by the tension of the carb slide return spring but, of course, that's on the wrong end of the cable to do the job really. You must, however, have some excess friction at the lever end for it to pop of quite so readily. Is the cable leaving to twistgrip at too tight a curve? It needs to leave at right angles and curve round slowly. I have a bit of fine locking wire round the ferrule so that if it does slip it doesn't fall off and get lost.

Hi Tim. I was going to suggest you oiled the cable inner, but you say you have done this. The carb's slide spring should be powerful enough to keep a decent tension on the inner wire and powerful enough to make the the trottle snap back more quickly than you could ever twist it back and in doing so you could never outpace the inner wire's pulling back into the carb. If the inner wire is at all sticky or has too much friction then snapping shut the throttle manually will cause the inner wire to momentarilly become slack and allow the collet to become un-tensioned and fall out. Try winding the throttle wide open and releasing it. The throttle should spin back with some force and speed, that is assuming you do have a friction adjustable return on the throttle control but that won't make any difference to the return force if it is set to make the return action slower or hold the gas open at a set position. You say you have oiled the cable but have you used thin oil and made sure it has run in from one end to the other? Make sure also that there aren't any frayed wire starnds at either end of the cable and also check the throttle slide is moving freely inside the carb. Sometimes you can have the spring offset from it's proper seating on the slide and rub against the slide body.

OOps missed a word out (NOT)...should read "that is assuming you do NOT have a friction adjustable return screw"...etc etc.

Had exactly the same problem, basically because the outer was too short relative to the inner. Got a replacement cable, by chance the outer was longer but a little too long. I seem to remember having to file a couple of mm off the ferule seating. Latter swopped Micarb for Amal and did not run the cables through the casquette and overall much better throttle action with no play in ferrule or cable. Compare your original and new cables, something must have changed. Cheers

It is possible that your slide is sticking and when you close the throttle the inner allows the ferrule to come off. If the "play"in the cable is set correctly then the ferrule cannot fall out. It is trapped in the twistgrip body and it effectively increases the outer length by the amount of insetion. I hav never experienced the problem you describe because my twistgrip is set without any action from the friction screw/pad. If you have a throttle that remains open when you let go then it could happen but if adjusted it shouldn't.

Hello TimG,

Thought this might help for the future!

I had lots of trouble with my clutch cable slipping out, the trouble was my cable was not fitted with perminent ferrul at the handlebar end, like yours I had to use a slotted ferrul!

Our host give me the number of the people who make up all there cables, so I sent my cable down to them & they removed the nipple end fitted the new ferrul then replaced the nipple, sent it back to me & no more troubles, fantastic.

Details are, JJ Cables Ltd, Hillfields Farm, Lighthorne, Warkshire,CV35 0BQ.

Phone 01926 651470
E-mail [email protected]

Cheers.

Hello again, HOWZIE, and to TIM G}---- yes, that's Johnson Cables. I've used them on quite a few occasions when needing "one-off's" etc to my dimentions. I found it helpful to discuss on the phone first then include a sketch or drawing of what's required with the cable that you send them.

On the other hand, it's not difficult to make up your own cables. All the bits are available and the only tools you really need are a hacksaw (used very carefully) and a decent soldering iron.

The cable is very close to the tank where it enters the carb. I've found that just a small movement at this point can make all the difference. I have been through all this and making sure that this is ok will give you a free cable, with a "click" as the slide hits the throttle stop, no matter how much or little you raise it. To stop the ferrul falling out ,just put a piece if tape around it to close the slit.