Hitchcocks Forum

I've been having a problem with the front brake on my 2003 Bullet 500. When I apply the brake it won't back off fully. I had thought that it was because the pads might be well worn and getting to the end of their usable life. I pulled them over the weekend but had the wrong replacement pads. I'll get the correct ones and try again.

Just out of interest should I be replacing the return springs, as well as upgrading the pads?

Had this problem on my Honda some years ago and it turned out the Calliper sliders had gone rusty, I sanded then smooth and used copper slip to lubricate, was ok after that.

I had similar, also on a Honda. A CJ360. It had a floating arm that had a frozen bush (Blocked with white alloy powder)I also had it on a new Kawaski drifter. 2 things to check are sliders/bushes are free and lubricated and let the piston(s) come out a little way and check there isnt a tiny thin brown ring round its circumference where it would normally sit against its seal. This is enough to stop the piston retreating far enough back up the bore to free the pads. If you have strong fingernails this can usually be picked off , then polished up. Finish with a polish then a tiny smear of copperslip buffed in.Then push the piston back in to it's normal position. Dont go mad here as you dont want copper grease on your pads or disc!

Seeing as you mention fitting new return springs, I assume this is a drum brake? If so, a stiff cable or operating cams are the most likely culprits [when you fit the new springs you could clean and lightly grease the cam spindles where they run in the brake plate]. Oiling or replacing the cable might also help. Regards, Paul.

I've had this a few times, it has been caused by the brake cam partially seizing where it passes through the brake plate. Removing it and cleaning it up has cured the problem. a tiny bit of copper grease may stop it reoccurring.

Aha - My apologies - I read pads - and assumed a disc - As Bullet whisperer and John M then.....

I've just had the same thing on mine. Rub the cams down if there are any less-than-smooth bits. Check behind the cam -- mine had some of the aluminium casting extending over the boss that the cam turns on. Someone also suggested putting a copper washer behind the cam. I didn't do this, didn't have the appropriate washer to hand. Then lightly grease the cams.

PS -- also check there isn't any rust in the holes in the faceplate where the cams go - my back brake recently seized up completely because of this. If there is, rub the cams/hole down and put a bit of grease in there too.

Had this happen a few times on my 2002 Bullet - I could almost believe there's some sort of electrolytic reaction going on between the brake plate (aluminium) and the the brake cams (steel). My bike had already had the Hitchcocks link rod mod. carried out when purchased - unfortunately this would allow one cam to stick independently of its "free" neighbour and for this reason I swapped it back to the OE setup. I personally wouldn't use Copaslip or similar for this application as I've found that over time it dries out and gums up, and can eventually be the cause of sticking. I used proper mechanical brake grease.....however, you may have to accept that you will need to dismantle and service the brake occasionally as part of routine maintenance. Make sure everything else (cable, lever, linkage)is well lubed and moving freely. HTH

Are we talking about drum brake here?
If so, I had this problem until I fitted stronger return springs on shoes; see my previous post for details:

http://www.hitchcocksmotorcycles.com/vi ... orumorder=