Hitchcocks Forum

Just received a new set of standard rings for my 2003 sixty5. I know the second ring is marked "top", and I believe the oil ring goes in either way up, but am I correct in thinking the top ring also goes in either way up? It seems to have the tiny chamfer on both edges.
Ray.

Hi Ray, the sequence or order for fitting the rings that you describe is correct and as long as the other two rings are not marked with 'Top' on either of their faces, they can be fitted either way up. regards, Paul.

Thanks Paul, I did finally contact Mr H by e mail, (phone always busy), and got the same answer,

Now when I get rid of this raging cold I can get the engine back together!

Ray.

PS. After fiddling around and getting Wellseal al over my hands trying to get the barrel on with the studs in place, I removed them and put some supports under the piston and made a ring compressor from a strip of alloy and a cable tie, and will fit the studs after the barrel is on. When the cold has gone, sneezing, coughing and snotting everywhere at moment!

Ray.

Hello RAY-----------on a Bullet 65 you can fit the piston on quite easily with the studs in place.....Also you don't need a piston ring compressor as the bottom of the barrel's skirt has a generous taper such that by slight "wriggling" you can capture and compress the rings quite safely >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> --------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------

Just a reminder to set the correct ring gap to the barrel before fitting. As already said, no ring compressor required, apply plenty of oil and ease them in with the taper. Rather then a rod through the small end I use two pieces of wood under the piston, this gives more finger room and holds the piston square, the barrel will wiggle enough to compress the rings.

The time for all 3 photos to be taken was around a couple of mins.........Personally I dislike using wood as an Engineering medium so would suggest some square or rectangular soft metal eg}--- Brass or Aluminium instead but yes, I agree with the idea about holding the piston square (if that's what you want to do).......RAY, just a thought but seeing as how you now have the O/E studs out then I believe our hosts do replacement ones with squared ends for a spanner to fit onto ???---------I note that you had "Welseal all over your hands"..Was that from the cylinder base gasket ?? If so you don't need to use Welseal AND a gasket as well.......Just rub some light Lithium (Bearing) grease into the pores of the paper gasket and fit onto a dry surface.....The gasket will do its' sealing job OK and the joint will come apart later without the need to scrape everything in sight.........

Each to their own! It may not be necessary to remove the studs, but will make life easier in my case. I do like the idea of a rod through the gudgeon pin, as the piston really needs to be further down to allow the barrel to be manoeuvred over the studs and past the top tube.

Re the wellseal, belt and braces, and the main reason it was leaking at the head was I didn't use any sealant on the copper gasket.

Ray.

Re the studs with square ends, I prefer to use the 2 nuts on either side of the head, locked together and tightened down with a spanner.

Ray.