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[DAL]

Hi all, I'm in Victoria, Australia and have a 47 bullet that I can't get the timing right, so she just will not start. Now the points are two separate pieces, the top piece is like a bit of flat spring steel while the bottom is really just an adjustable screw. All the manuals etc that I've come across don't reference these type of points. Also, I not clear on what the gap should be, or really how to get the timing right. Can anybody give me some pointers?

[PeteF]

Did they make Bullets in 47? Are you sure it's not Model G?

[Alan R]

Hi DAL----------- looking for some "pointers" eh ?? ( trans-world humour ??)---- As per PETE F that description sounds to me like the type of points found in the magneto on a Model G ........... The lower part of the moving item rests on a FACE CAM ie a "bumpy plate" that is circular in shape and vertical in orientation..... ?? The whole points assembly rotates whilst the Face cam remains stationary...There is also a slot within the face cam that has a cable running from it to the handlebars and an Amal-type semi-rotating lever ( looks like the choke lever ) --- This is the MANUAL advance and retard timing adjustment..........On this Hitchcocks page look at the L/H column...select PARTS BOOKS ONLINE....350 RIGID.....1947 MOGEL G.....PAGE 24 LUCAS MAGDYNO etc....The illustration is of the type that I suspect you have ???? .........Gap should be 0.015" ( ie Fifteen thou ) whilst timing is done in the usual way and the adjustable screw ( with a locknut ) that you mention is then used to adjust the gap once you have the piston in its' correct place, remembering to set the manual aadvance/retard lever to the FULL RETARD position first !!...PS}----- I think that the whole points assembly sits onto a taper shaft secured by a bolt... ...........

[simon]

Whatever it is (although it's more likely a model J than a Bullet by the sound) you should be able to get it running with around a 12 thou points gap opening at about 7/16" before top dead centre as measured with a bit of stick down the plug hole. That is a full advance setting so make sure the advance lever is pulled right in. 47 should have a magneto I would have thought but all's well if it's battery and coil. Good luck and post a picture for those in the know to give you a definitive answer on the model.

[simon]

Ha got in just before me Alan. It would be a J if it's a 500 though wouldn't it?

[DAL]

Thanks guys your description is spot on, it has a battery, rigid rear, one cylinder 500cc and an advance / retard lever on the left, and what may be a choke on the right(is it a choke ?). I will post some pcs, (Melbourne's weather has turned to crap so I leave for work in the dark and get home in the dark, cold wet) tonight. The bike has a silver tank, guards and wheels, black everywhere else. It's one cylinder 500cc and one aspect that had me stumped for ages was the hollow screw with the oil wick that goes through the points was arching out and earthing the points, thus no spark. Have you ever encountered that problem.

So to tune I'll take the plug out, put a piece of dowl or such thing I can't drop down into the cylinder rotate the engine until TDC then do it again stopping 7/16 before TDC and with the advance lever pulled fully in adjust the point gap to 12 thou rotating the body to ensure this is when the gap is at the maximum 12 thou setting. Clearly as a mechanic I make a good public servant, but does that sound sort of right?

[Alan R]

Hi guys----------------------is this what we're talking about ?? >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> a 1947 J 500cc ??

[Alan R]

---------- if you follow my directions regarding our hosts lists on the L/H side of this page only this time enter the details for the 500cc J.. There is a particularly good sketch showing the points assy. partially dismantled........... Note that the crankcase and bottom end in general is virtually identical to that 1937 Model G that I posted earlier..

[Alan R]

[Leon Novello]

Hi Dal: Use a piece of wire coat hanger with a bend at the top, down the cylinder, dowel or pencil can break off if on an angle when the piston is moving up. When you have the piston at the right position, after you have set the gap it is easy to use a piece of cigarette paper or any thin paper betwen the points, then adjust the points plate until you can just pull it out without it tearing; this is when the spark will fire. Usually done with magneto ignition.