Forum

[Davie Hall]

Hi all. The oil level on an electra x , is it checked with the dipstick screwed in or sitting on the case?. Also how long does it take to get the oil up to temp?. My bike always does a min of 20 miles and normally longer runs I.e a couple of hours and the oil is still emulsifying. At this rate I will be changing oil every few hundred miles. Is this normal, I thought being a lean burn engine it would run fairly hot but it seems to run on the cold side.
Thanks

[Presto]

Hi Davie. Best check oil level with oil filler/dip-stick screwed in - to avoid over-filling and wet sumping. The emulsion is not something to worry about too much. It is evidence that the oil doing its job, holding the moisture in suspension - 'standing water' is what does damage. Some oils react in this way far more than others (Duckhams seems to produce more than most it seems). The Electra X does run hotter than some but there is a lot of metal in these engines and they can in damp cold weather produce a large amount of condensation. Certainly no need to change oil more than every 1000 - 1500 miles.

[Davie Hall]

Thanks Presto, Thats put my mind at rest about emulsifying. Now will have to drain a bit of oil out its about 30mm above the max level.
ps I didn't do the last change

[Frank]

The problem of condensation is also made worse by the closed loop of the standard breather system. Condensation never gets the chance to breathe out into fresh air and so tends to build up, blocking the pipes, catch tank and air filter with emulsified oil. It's best to disconnect the pipes from the air box and route a new pipe from the catch tank to open air. This way it can vent and prevent the pipes from blocking and contaminating the air filter.

[PeteF]

Absolutely Frank.
I know the Electra is different but have a read HERE

[Leon Novello]

Most air-cooled engines are designed to run oil temperature at around 80c. The Royal Enfield engine oil runs very cool, even on the hottest day you will be lucky to see 60c if you place a probe into the oil reservoir when you get home. This is why the oil will emulsify; it never gets hot enough to vaporize the water.eg.

[PeteF]

Yes, they do run on the cool side. Another reason not to fill with oil up to the mark - about half way is fine. Even with no oil showing on the dip stick you still may have more than enough - trouble is of course you don't know how much. Case for longer dipsticks??

[Dennis O]

Hello Davie, All your replies offer sound advice and my Electra also builds up emulsion. I usually pull off the large breather pipe from the engine unit to the catch can where it leaves the engine to check for emulsion inside the pipe. If you wish to keep the machine standard you must clean out the hosed and catch can at regular intervals. I now use diesel type 15/40 oil and find this helps. Also a little water always drains out first when changing the engine oil. Condensation is a major problem on these engines so I drop all oils at 3,000 miles which includes the primary drive ATF. I normally do long runs on the bike so this also helps. My advice try Diesel type oil.
I remember years ago how many owners of Japanese two stroke bikes ignored the primary drive oil changes only to be horrified when the took off the outer case to see how much water came out and the build up of rust inside. Also put on a 19 tooth gearbox sprocket which to me improved the bike while touring You do not have to change the rear chain. Going up to a 20 tooth one you have to and also cut off a protruding stud from the gearbox as it will catch the chain. Do not ask me how I know.