Forum

[Jim]

When I changed the rear wheel snail cam adjusters on my 500 efi Bullet for the threaded ones, I had to remove the wheel complete with the brake drum as I couldn't get them apart. However it was starting to rain and so I didn't waste too much time trying.
Now my rear tyre is showing a reluctance to hold air pressure so it's going to have to come off again. Is there a trick to leaving the brake in place or does it just take a heavy hand and brute force to get the drum and the rest of the wheel apart?

[PeteF]

It can be a bit reluctant to come off as the shock rubbers tend to stick.
I take the spindle out, remove the spacer then put the spindle back temporarily. It keeps the wheel in line while you persuade it off. This helps when you're putting it back on too.

[Leon Novello]

This will help a lot if you have a solo saddle. If not place a flat piece of wood under the centre stand to get it up higher before lifting; if you are not confident about tilting the bike to remove the wheel.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3KkOgpuAQDU

[Jim]

Thanks guys The problem is not with getting the wheel out but splitting it from the brake drum. I couldn't budge it last time but I was unwilling to force it.

[Gwilly]

Jim you shouldn't be taking the drum out with the wheel, only remove the spit pin and the large castellated nut..

The nut behind holds the drum to the swing arm, This stays put… follow Petes idea of pull out the axle pin and remove the spacers,, refit the axle pin to hold everything square and then grip the wheel on each side and waggle, push and pull alternately the wheel from the drum…

Remove the axle pin and drop the wheel out, which you can if the bikes up on a four by two.. If not slacken the mudguard stay nuts and lift the mudguard up, rolling the wheel out from under… sounds worse than it is honest…

On refit give the shock rubbers a light spray with WD40 or olive oil from the kitchen, slips back together a treat… gwilly

[Jim]

That is the problem Gwilly I was unable to split the drum from the wheel which is why I had to take them both off. They were stuck fast and I couldn't get them apart, even with them off the bike. As I said, I was unwilling to use too much force and to top it all it started raining when I did it so I bunged it all back together before I got drenched. I must admit that the thought of WD40 did spring to mind but I was unwilling to try it in case it damaged the rubbers of the shock absorber.

[Gwilly]

Sorry Jim, i really must learn to read posts more carefully before replying…

I think having the drum secured to the bike is the best way to get a purchase on it, else your trying to use levers and such with everything moving about… Remove the axle completely and waggle the rim, turn the wheel a few degrees and keep doing the same. maybe even a mild kick just to show it who's boss… its got to come off in the end.. get someone to hold the bike upright on the opposite side, don't want any accident...

[Norm]

I had to use a bigger than normal hammer to get a Super Meteor Q/D wheel apart recently. I got the owner to stand and watch because I wasn't going to do it without him being there and then him say why did you do that if something broke.Bike hadn't been used since 1988 and had been parked under a lean to

[Bertie the Bullet]

I wouldn't use WD40, I've heard reports of it rotting the rubbers in drive chains, if true it may do the same to the cush drive rubbers, also it dries out, when putting mine back together I put a small amount of grease on the rubbers, it wasn't stuck last time I removed the wheel. Like the mud guard "hinge", didn't know you could do that.

[Leon Novello]

As someone commented on the youtube video,if you are wary of tilting the bike over to get the wheel out, you can remove the nuts from the front of a dual seat, loosen the rear ones, then lift the front of the seat up as you raise the mudguard. Place a thick rag on the petrol tank to protect the paint on the tank.